Sergio Leone and Ennio Morricone

Many weeks ago, I wrote this post, in which I described Ennio Morricone as “a living legend.”  On July 6, 2020, he died in Rome where he was born and lived.  He will remain a legend, and his music will live on.

They were born in Rome in the late 1920s, only three months apart.  Both had fathers in professions that would become their chosen fields, and who became their first teachers.  Neither spoke much English despite their popularity in the English-speaking world.  For a brief period, they were classmates in the same school together.  Sergio Leone and Ennio Morricone eventually formed one of the best-known and exemplary collaborations between a film director and a composer in film history.

Leone began his career as an assistant to director Vittorio de Sica during the production of Bicycle Thieves in 1948.  He went on to direct epics, such as The Last Days of Pompeii and The Colossus of Rhodes.  Later, Leone turned down the offer to direct The Godfather in favor of working on a gangster story that would eventually become his masterpiece.  In the mid-60s, as audiences lost interest in historical epics, Leone turned to a genre that had intrigued him since childhood:  the American Western.

From an early age, Morricone played several instruments, most notably the trumpet.  He wrote his first compositions when he was only six years old.  As he matured, he wrote music for the theatre, as well as classical music for voice and piano.  Then he started writing and arranging music for films as a ghost writer.  Although he composed music for some Western movies, it was his arrangement of an American folk song that captured Leone’s attention.

The turning points in the careers of both Leone and Morricone came in the mid 1960s with their collaboration on A Fistful of Dollars, followed by For a Few Dollars More, and The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. The trilogy became known as the Dollars Trilogy and also as the Man With No Name Trilogy.  Each film became more financially successful and more technically accomplished than its predecessor, and each artist contributed lasting innovations to the genre.

Leone redefined the Western in plot, characterization and mood, and the American cowboy in appearance, character and motivation.  Gone are the handsome, beautifully dressed men in white hats for heroes and black hats for villains.  Leone’s characters are more realistic and complex—often “lone wolves” who are morally ambiguous.  Relationships revolved around money, power and retribution.  Violence was rampant.  Leone’s cinematography is stunning:  He often juxtaposed close-up shots of dirty, unshaven, menacing faces with lengthy long shots of the beautiful, albeit barren, land and settings of the Old West, together with beautifully framed interior shots.

Instead of orchestral arrangements that had been used in previous Westerns, Morricone used gunshots, cracking whips, whistle, voices, Jew’s harp, trumpet, and the then-new electric guitar.  His special effects punctuated the action and contributed to its visceral effect.  For Leone, the eclectic and poignant music was a protagonist in his films.  It was said that he kept scenes going because he did not want the music to end, which probably contributed to somewhat long, slow films.

After the Dollars Trilogy, Leone and Morricone collaborated on what became known as the Once Upon a Time Trilogy.  Morricone’s score for the first, Once Upon a Time in the West, is one of the best-selling original instrumental scores in the world today.  The third, Once Upon a Time in America, is Leone’s brilliant masterpiece.  Starring Robert de Niro, it is the story of gangsters and friendship in Manhattan in the years of American prohibition.

Leone died five years later in 1989 at the age of 60, ending the relationship between the two artists. Morricone went on to collaborate with many other directors, including Brian De Palma (The Untouchables), Giuseppe Tornatore (Cinema Paradiso), and Franco Zeffirelli (Hamlet).  But this “living legend”, who has composed more than 400 scores for film and television, is probably best known for the variety of genres in his repertoire, which includes choral work, romantic themes, jazz, and the melodies of Africa.  He received seven Academy Award nominations for his film scores.  Finally, perhaps long overdue, Morricone was awarded the Best Original Music Score in 2016 for Quentin Tarantino’s The Hateful Eight.

Sergio Leone never received an Oscar, not even an honorary one.  Maybe it was because he produced “the Spaghetti Western,” almost always discounted with a disparaging tone.  Maybe it was because an Italian had the audacity to perfect a Hollywood standard.  Maybe it was because Hollywood had moved on to James Bond films and other fare.  But film history surely will credit Leone for his innovative vision in several genres and for bringing Morricone’s themes into popular culture.

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La torta di nocciole

Come ognuna delle 20 regioni italiane, anche il Piemonte ha i propri prodotti agricoli, ricette e tradizioni. L’attuale fama della cucina piemontese è in gran parte legata all’eccellenza dei suoi vini, in particolare al Barolo e ai suoi prodotti rari e raffinati come il tartufo bianco d’Alba. Il Piemonte è anche la patria della Nutella, è il luogo di origine del movimento Slow Food e degli amati grissini. Poiché il Piemonte confina con la Francia, in questa regione viene utilizzato più burro rispetto ad altre parti d’Italia.

Tra i famosi piatti piemontesi c’è la bagna calda, una preparazione a base di olio d’oliva, burro, aglio e acciughe in cui si intingono verdure e pane. È una fonduta italiana. La pasta tipica della regione sono i tajarin, simili alle tagliatelle. Vengono usati solo tuorli e farina per questi sottili nastri color zafferano. Un’altra pasta dorata (cioè all’uovo) regionale sono gli agnolotti al plin, piccoli ravioli delicati, ripieni di carne, verdure o formaggio. Una delle ricette più famose sono gli agnolotti al plin conditi semplicemente con burro e salvia.

Il Piemonte è anche famoso per molti deliziosi dolci, come il bonet, la panna cotta e lo zabaione, quest’ultimo una ricca crema dolce fatta con vino Marsala e tuorli d’uovo. Le pesche ripiene, un’altra specialità, sono riempite di cioccolato e amaretti, poi cotte in forno. Ma forse i dolci più rappresentativi della regione sono quelli a base di nocciole. Tutto è iniziato dopo la seconda guerra mondiale, con l’idea di inserire le nocciole tritate al cioccolato per preparare la crema gianduja, precursore della Nutella.

Oggi le nocciole sono utilizzate per molti dolci piemontesi locali, dai baci di dama al torrone, alla torta di nocciole. Le noci delle Langhe hanno ricevuto la designazione europea Igp (indicazione geografica protetta), il che significa che solo i prodotti di quella zona possono essere identificati come tali nel commercio. Queste nocciole sono state coltivate sin dall’antichità in un’area compresa nelle province di Cuneo, Alessandria e Asti.

La torta di nocciole:

Ingredienti

  • 150 grammi di nocciole (meglio se delle Langhe)
  • 100 grammi di burro (ammorbidito)
  • 200 grammi di zucchero
  • 3 uova
  • 1 cucchiaio d’olio
  • 60 ml latte
  • 200 grammi di farina
  • 1 cucchiaio di lievitino

Preparazione

Portare il forno a 180 C.  Mettere le nocciole a tostare in forno per 5 minuti, trasferirle su un canovaccio e strofinarle così da rimuovere la pelle esterna.  Metterle in un frullatore e tritarle velocemente, fino ad una consistenza simile al pangrattato.  Montare zucchero e burro, poi aggiungere le uova una alla volta, in modo che si amalgamino bene, infine mettere l’olio ed il latte.  Lavorare insieme le nocciole, la farina e il lievito.  Versare il composto in una tortiera unta, coperta di carta da forno oppure spolverata leggermente di farina.  Cuocere per 35-40 minuti e controllare con uno stecchino se la torta è cotta a puntino.

Variazioni

Ci sono versioni senza farina che utilizzano solo nocciole e altre versioni che usano del cacao.   Ci sono anche versioni che aggiungono all’impasto due etti di amaretti sbriciolati e un bicchierino di Marsala secco.  È possibile aggiungere un goccio di rhum, o una tazzina di caffè.  A lavoro finito si può gustare la torta spolverandola di zucchero a velo e accompagnandola con dello zabaione caldo o della panna montata.  Infine un altro ottimo abbinamento è con un buon bicchiere di Moscata d’Asti.

 

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Hazelnut Cake

Like every one of the Italy’s 20 regions, Piemonte has its unique agricultural products, recipes and traditions.  The current fame of Piemonte’s cuisine is in large part tied to the excellence of its wines, in particular the Barolo, and to its rare and revered products like the white truffles of Alba.  Piemonte is also the home to Nutella, the origins of the Slow Food Movement, and the beloved grissini.  Because Piemonte shares a border with France, more butter is used in this region than other parts of Italy.

Among the famous dishes of Piemonte is la bagna calda, a hot bath of olive oil and butter, garlic and anchovies into which you dip vegetables and bread.  It is an Italian fondue.  The pasta of the region is called tajarin, which is similar to tagliatelle.  Only egg yolks are used in these thin, saffron-colored ribbons.  Another golden pasta of the region is agnolotti al plin, which are delicate, petite ravioli filled with meat, vegetable or cheese.  One of the most famous recipes is agnolotti dal plin al burro e salvia, which are little pasta pockets with butter and sage.

Piemonte is also famous for many lovely desserts, like bonet, panna cotta, and zabaione, a rich custard made with Marsala wine and a decadent number of egg yolks.  Pesche ripiene are baked peaches filled with chocolate and amaretti.  But perhaps the desserts most representative of the region are those made with hazelnuts. It all started with the idea after World War II of incorporating chocolate into pulverized hazelnuts to make the gianduja paste, a forerunner of Nutella.

Today hazelnuts are used in many local Piemontese sweets, from baci di dama (hazelnut cookies) to nougat to the torta di nocciole (hazelnut cake).  The nuts from Langhe have received the European Igp designation (protected geographic indication), which means that only products from that region can be identified as such in commerce.  These hazelnuts have been cultivated since ancient times in an area within the provinces of Cuneo, Alessandria and Asti.

Hazelnute Cake

Ingredients:

150 grams (about 5.3 oz) whole hazelnuts

100 grams (about 3.5 oz) softened butter

200 grams (about 7 oz) sugar

3 eggs

1 T. olive oil

60 ml (about 2 oz) milk

200 grams (about 7 oz) flour

1 t. baking powder

Preparation: Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.  Lay hazelnuts in a single layer on a baking tray and toast in the oven for 5 minutes.  Remove and transfer the warm hazelnuts to a tea towel.  Rub the nuts together in the towel to remove some of the skins.  Transfer them to a food processor and pulverize just until they are fine like breadcrumbs.  Beat the butter and sugar together in a mixing bowl.  Add the eggs one by one, beating to incorporate well, then add the olive oil and milk.  Fold in the hazelnuts, flour and baking powder.  Place the mixture into a greased baking tin lined with parchment paper or dusted lightly with flour.  Bake for 35-40 minutes or until the top is springy and a skewer inserted comes out clean.

Variations: There are flourless versions that use only hazelnuts and versions that add cocoa.  There are also versions that add 200 grams of crumbled amaretti and a little glass of dry Marsala.  Or you can add a splash of rum or espresso to the mixture.  Whichever version you make, it’s wonderful as it is, but you can dust it with powdered sugar or serve it with a warm zabaione or some softly whipped cream…and a glass of Moscato.

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