The Long Shadow of Salvatore ‘Totò’ Riina

An impressive resume:  His “career” began in the ‘50s with a string of crimes.  After a prison term, he was on the lam for 24 years.  He was responsible for thousands of murders.  Then he was in jail for 24 years serving 26 life sentences.  He transformed Sicilian organized crime into a terrorist organization.  He remained “Capo dei capi” (the boss of the bosses) of the Mafia until his death in a prison hospital in Parma at the age of 87.  He had lived in a high-security prison for the most hardened criminals.

Totò Riina never repented.  Omertà until the end.  On the day of his death in November 2017, one of his daughters left a Facebook message:  A photo of a black rose superimposed on a face of a woman half obscured.  Her forefinger, tattooed with “shhh,” in front of her lips.  Silence.

The story of Riina is above all the story of a group of cruel and ruthless thugs from the town of Corleone in Sicily, who climbed the hierarchy of Cosa Nostra, which had its own rules, its own laws, its own distorted morality.  Riina’s criminal baptism began at the age of 18 when he killed a guy during a brawl.  As was common then, he was recruited by the Mafia by the time he got out of prison.  During the ‘70s and ‘80s when he was on the lam, he ordered thousands of deaths, many of which he executed himself.  In 1979, the summer of terror, he unleashed a war that devastated Sicily.  By 1981 his military force enabled him to openly eliminate all the heads of families that resisted him, making him the Capo dei capi.

Riina killed or had killed carabinieri, magistrates, union members, journalists, doctors, and regional and political officials.  Among the most notable were Piersanti Mattarella, the president of the region and brother of Sergio Mattarella, the current president of the Republic; and Carlo Alberto Dalla Chiesa, who had been sent to Sicily to curb the mafia.  Most were innocent victims in a conflict to solidify power and territory.

Then the Maxi trial began in 1986 led by two courageous magistrates, Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino (see posts “The Courage to be Heroes” from August 2017).  Still at large, Riina was sentenced in absentia to life imprisonment.  When his sentence became definitive (after appeals), Riina declared war on the State and on the two judges who had sentenced him.  Falcone and Borsellino were killed by car bombs in 1992.

Riina was captured in January 1993 in Palermo.  He had never left Sicily.  There are those who say that Bernardo Provenzano, a fellow Corleonese, “sold” him to the authorities.  When his face appeared for the first time on television the day of his arrest, everyone was surprised.  No one could imagine that a person so awkward and small and wild-eyed could be the brutal Mafioso that the judicial chronicles had painted.

Over the course of Riina’s incarceration, public officials arranged to wiretap him in order to understand better his thoughts, methods, and connections to people inside and outside of the mafia.  What emerged were strange ramblings. He managed to say everything and the contrary of everything.   In prison, Riina talked and jabbered with his companions during walks in the open air.  Not surprising, in front of a judge, he had not opened his mouth.  Silence.

Without a doubt, he had delusions of grandeur: “I became a huge thing, I became a king” and “I was always a man of honor…a great thinker…I am proud of everything that I did.”  And he boasted about his murders.  About the death of Falcone, “I put an end to ‘the tuna.’” He bragged about the murder of general Dalla Chiesa, and he claimed responsibility for the massacre of Borsellino in one of his last intercepted wiretaps.

It will be interesting to see how the Mafia evolves after his death.  It is believed that neither the Camorra nor the ‘Ndraghetta wish to imitate Riina.  Before him, the Mafia operated in secrecy and did not wish to attract the spotlight.  In this way, people could conceive of the Mafia as loose bands of thugs without much coordination and power.  But when Riina unleashed terror on the State–his brand of exerting power–he turned the spotlight on the Mafia and caused an immense backlash.

But much remains mysterious about Riina’s dealings and his connections.  He will take his secrets with him to the grave.  But the investigations into the murders of Falcone and Borsellino are ongoing…even after 25 years.  The latest state-of-the-art investigations are being conducted on evidence recovered near the crater of Capaci where Falcone’s car blew up:  Two gloves, a flashlight, and a tube of mastic.  A mysterious couple apparently were present near the attack on the afternoon of May 23, 1992.  So far, there are no DNA matches.

The mysteries continue….

Posted in Abitudini, Calabria, Differenze culturali, English, Foto, Italia, Mafia, Politica, Sicilia, Storia | 2 Comments

Lo Smeraldo della Sicilia

Ogni anno, a fine settembre, in alcune piazze e vie del centro storico di Bronte si svolge la Sagra del Pistacchio.  Bronte è uno dei tre paesi in provincia di Catania in Sicilia alle pendici occidentali dell’Etna dove crescono i pistacchi più premiati al mondo.

Il pistacchio di Bronte DOP (Designazione di Origine Protetta di Europa) è famoso fin dall’antichità per il sapore dolce e delicato, il profumo aromatico, e per il suo intenso colore verde.  Bronte e i due paesi limitrofi (Adrano e Biancavilla) producono solo circa l’1% della produzione mondiale di pistacchi, che in commercio è stato spacciato illegalmente come originario di Bronte.  In realtà, questi noccioli provengono da altri Paesi, soprattutto dall’Iran e dalla Grecia.  Mentre l’80% della produzione siciliana viene esportata, il resto viene utilizzato in molti prodotti nazionali, che vanno dalla salsiccia alla pasta, dalle torte ai torroni, dai formaggi ai biscotti.   Il gelato al pistacchio brontese è uno dei più apprezzato al mondo.

La storia del raccolto è molto legato alla cultura e alle tradizioni dell’area, che vengono tramandate da padre a figlio, dalla madre a figlia, per secoli.  È anche la storia della terra che sopravvive al vulcano e approfitta della sua fertilità, e del tempo sempre imprevedibile.

La raccolta avviene ogni due anni per preservare la qualità del frutto e per evitare l’eccessivo sfruttamento della pianta già sottoposta a diversi stress tra cui i frequenti periodi di siccità delle estati siciliane.  Negli anni alternativi, gli alberi sono tagliati rimuovendo “gli occhi,” cioè i germogli dei rami.  Ciò garantisce una qualità costante della produzione l’anno successivo.

Prima dell’avvento delle macchine, tutto veniva fatto a mano, e anche ora, ci sono poche macchine utilizzate nel raccolto.  Gli alberi crescono vicini l’uno all’altro aggrappati alla roccia ignea sulla terra che i macchinari a malapena penetrare.  Forbici ed accetta vengono utilizzati per rimuovere i rami secchi che non producono più frutta; questi rami devono essere bruciati subito per evitare di venire attaccati da un parassita che può minacciare l’intera coltivazione.  Per facilitare la raccolta e ridurre al minimo la perdita di frutta, vengono stesi dei teloni neri sotto gli alberi.   I lavoratori indossano guanti per proteggersi dalle macchie della resina.  Per i grappoli più alti viene utilizzata la cosiddetta ferra, un bastone che viene ricavato da una pianta selvatica di finocchio.  Essendo morbido, è l’unico strumento che può essere usato per percuotere i rami senza rovinarli e, allo stesso tempo, fare cadere a terra i pistacchi maturi.

Dopo la raccolta quotidiana, i pistacchi vengono caricati in sacchi destinati alla smallatura, che è una macchina semplice che ogni famiglia Brontese ha per rimuovere il mallo che copre il guscio.  Poi i pistacchi devono essere immediatamente esposti al sole per promuovere l’essiccazione.  Ogni casa di campagna a Bronte è dotata davanti di un terrazzino—non perché alla gente piace sdraiarsi al sole, ma, infatti, per asciugare i pistacchi.

Ogni famiglia Brontese sa anche che il pericolo per i loro raccolti viene dal cielo.  In passato, prima che esistessero strumenti per conoscere le condizioni meteo e quando i ruoli nella raccolta erano basati sul genere, le nonne rimanevano a casa per gestire le operazioni quotidiane (compresa la raccolta e l’essiccazione del pistacchio sulla terrazza).  Hanno imparato a interpretare il cielo e le nuvole.  Non appena vedevano il brutto tempo che si avvicinava da ovest, chiamavano le donne delle famiglie a raccogliere tutti i pistacchi sui terrazzi prima che la pioggia li bagnasse.

Il raccolto è una lotta perpetua—contro siccità, tempeste, e parassiti—ma quale il piatto in gioco è il reddito di molte famiglie che sul pistacchio basano il proprio sostentamento.  Due anni fa, Bronte ha prodotto un raccolto eccezionale, ma quest’anno la grandine è arrivata a metà maggio, nel momento peggiore possibile quando il frutto è ancora piccolo e deve maturare.

C’è un’altra tradizione radicata nella cultura brontese che ancora oggi, è tramandata dai genitori ai figli.  È l’antica credenza popolare secondo la quale mangiare pistacchi farebbe venire la febbre.  Era questo, infatti, che i vecchi raccontavano ai bambini per dissuaderli dal mangiare troppi pistacchi durante la raccolta e quindi risparmiarne il più possibile del frutto preciso.

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The Emerald of Sicily

Every year at the end of September, in the streets and pizzas of centro storico of Bronte, the Fair of the Pistachio is celebrated.  Bronte is one of the 3 towns on the western slope of Mount Etna in Sicily where the finest pistachios in the world are grown.

The pistachio of Bronte DOP (Europe’s Protected Designation of Origin) has been famous throughout the world since antiquity for its sweet and delicate flavor, its aromatic scent, and its intense green color.  Bronte and its two neighboring towns (Atrano and Biancavilla) produce only about 1% of the world’s pistachios, which has led to illegal selling of pistachios from other countries as originally coming from Bronte.  While 80% of Sicily’s production is exported, the rest is used in many Italian products, ranging from sausage to pasta, from cakes to nougats, from cheeses to biscuits.  The Brontese pistachio gelato is one of the most appreciated in the world.

The story of the harvest is very much tied to the culture and traditions of the area, which have been handed down father to son, mother to daughter, for centuries.  And it is also the story of the land that both survives the volcano and takes advantage of its fertility, and of the ever-unpredictable climate.

The harvest occurs every two years to preserve the quality of the fruit and to avoid excessive exploitation of the plants that are already under stress from, among other things, the frequent periods of drought in the Sicilian summers.  In the alternate years, the trees are pruned cutting “the eyes,” that is, the buds from the branches that grow the shoots.  This guarantees a consistent quality production the following year.

Before machines everything was done by hand, and even now, there are few machines used in the harvest.  The trees grow close to each other clinging to the igneous rock on land that machinery can barely penetrate.  Scissors and hatchets are used to remove the dry branches that no longer produce fruit; the branches must then be burned immediately to avoid being attacked by a parasite that can threaten the entire cultivation.  To facilitate the harvest and to minimize the loss of fruit, black tarps are spread out under the trees.  Workers wear gloves to protect themselves from the stain of the resin.  For the fruit clusters that grow high in the trees, they use a so-called ferra, a stick that is made from a wild fennel plant.  Being soft, it is the only instrument that can be used to strike the branches without ruining them, and at the same time, make the mature pistachios fall to the ground.

After the daily harvest, the nuts are loaded in sacks destined for the smallatura, a simple machine that every Brontese family has for removing the husk that covers the shell.  Then the nuts must be immediately exposed to the sun to promote drying.  Every country house in Bronte is equipped in front with a terrace—not for the people to lounge on, but, in fact to dry the pistachios.

Every Brontese family also knows that the danger to their crops comes from the sky.  In the past, before weather instruments and when roles were gender-based, the grandmothers stayed home to manage the daily operations (including the collection and drying of the nuts on the terrace).  They learned to “read” the sky and the clouds.  As soon as they saw bad weather approaching from the west, they called together the women of the family to collect all the pistachios on the terrace before the rains drenched them.

The harvest is a perpetual struggle—against drought, rains, and parasites—but what’s at stake is the income of many families who base their lives on this fruit.  Two years ago, Bronte produced an exceptional crop, but this year hail came in the middle of May, at the worst possible time when the fruit was small and needed to mature.   There is another tradition rooted in the Brontese culture that even today is passed down from parents to children.  It is the ancient popular belief according to which eating too many pistachios brings on the fever.  Even today, the older folks tell this to the children to dissuade them from eating too many during the harvest and therefore to preserve as much of their precious crop as possible.

 

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