What’s on the menu for The Last Supper?

If you were on death row, what would you choose for your last meal?  Lobster, pizza, linguine all’aglio e olio?  Let’s change to the Last Supper of Christ.  According to historians, the last supper was held on the occasion of Jewish Passover and therefore the menu was most likely composed of bitter herbs, unleavened bread, and charoset (a dessert of dried fruit) while the wine, almost surely red, was diluted with two parts water according to usage at the time.

But in art it’s another matter.  Painters throughout history enriched the table according to customs of their times and followed specific symbolic conventions.  Here are some examples taken from an article in Focus.it:

  1. The first artistic representation, from the 6th century A.C., is a mosaic in the Church of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna.  There isn’t a trace of wine on the table, but besides bread, appear two large fish.  From early Christian tradition, the fish was a symbol of Christ.
  2. One of the dishes often depicted in Medieval and Renaissance times was lamb, as in this painting of the Master of the Book of Home, an anonymous German working between 1500 and 1600. Lamb is a symbol of purity, but also of sacrifice:  its presence foreshadows the destiny of Christ.  The painting is in the Gemäldegalerie of Berlin and is part of the altar panels called Polyptch of the Passion.
  3. Lamb wasn’t the only type of meat painted by artists. Within the altarpiece of the Majesty, Duccio di Buoninsegna, a Siena painter from the mid 1200s, replaces lamb with what appears to be a roasted piglet.  This was a very common food at the time of the painter, but also an obvious historical inaccuracy, given that Jesus, being Jewish, would not have eaten pork.  Today the painting is preserved at the Museum of the Duomo in Siena.
  4. Peeking out in a series of frescoes in Friuli, Trentino, and Veneto are river shrimp, much appreciated in those areas but that convey different meanings. Among the most curious is one that claims that shrimp symbolize heresy and sin because they are moving “backwards.”  Here is the fresco of Antonio Baschenis (end of the 15th century) at Santo Stefano a Carisolo in Trento.
  5. Perhaps more sophisticated than the shrimp are the cherries scattered on the elegant table painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio around 1486.  Here the red of the fruit is an explicit reference to the blood of Christ.  On the table covered by a delicately decorated tablecloth, are other foods, including bread and cheese.  The wine and water are in beautiful amphore.  Note the presence of the cat, waiting for ….?  This painting is in the convent of Saint Mark in Florence, which has become a museum and where there are numerous works of Beato Angelico.
  6. In the Last Supper of Tintoretto, painted between 1592 and 1594 for the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore in Venice, a mysterious decorated cake appears at the end of the table. To engage the viewer, the painter decided to set the scene in a hallway that resembles a tavern of the time, wrapping everything in an extraordinary play of light and shadow.
  7. Among the last suppers, we can’t skip the masterpiece of Leonardo da Vinci, painted between 1494 and 1495 in the refectory of the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan. A recent study identified among the dishes an eel seasoned with orange (or lemon) slices, which was widespread in the Renaissance.

 

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Il musicista gastronomico

Avendo l’Opera Santa Barbara che presenta “Il barbiere di Siviglia” nel 150esimo anniversario della morte del compositore, questo è un momento adatto per riflettere sulla vita di Gioacchino Rossini (1792—1868), un compositore popolare di molte opere e anche un conoscitore di cibo e vino.

Nacque a Pesaro in quella regione che oggi è chiamata Le Marche sulla costa adriatica.  Suo padre fu un musicista d’orchestra e sua madre fu un’aspirante cantante.  Durante la sua infanzia, venne spesso lasciato alla cura della nonna materna.  Imparò da lei il piacere per le ricette e ad apprezzare i cibi marchigiani, gusti e sapori che lo seguirono per tutta la vita, soprattutto la passione per i tartufi.

Secondo la leggenda, da bambino, Gioacchino servì da chierichetto per avere la scusa di gustare gli avanzi di vino dopo la messa.  Fu un precoce compositore di opere, e fece il suo debutto all’età di 18 anni con “La cambiale di matrimonio”.  Le sue opere più famose includono non solo “Il barbiere di Siviglia”, ma anche “L’italiana in Algeri”, “La cenerentola”, e “Otello”.

Durante i suoi viaggi in Europa per spettacoli operistici, sviluppò una conoscenza e un apprezzamento per cibi e vini che provenivano dai luoghi più disparati.  Nel 1823 incontrò il famoso chef francese Antonin Carême, che fu responsabile della cucina della nobile famiglia Rothschild.  Rimasero amici per tutta la vita condividendo una comune passione per il cibo.

Fu a Parigi al Cafè Anglais che il famoso Filetto alla Rossini (o Tournedos à la Rossini) nacque.  Rossini aveva l’abitudine di chiedere varianti ai piatti sul menu, per arricchirli secondo i suoi gusti.  A questo particolare pranzo, Rossini chiese allo chef di cambiare la ricetta del filetto, aggiungendo il tartufo.  Lo chef offeso non intendeva esaudire la sua richiesta, al che Rossini rispose, “Alors, tournez le dos” (allora, volto la schiena)!  Un altro aneddoto racconta che il nome nacque a causa del bisogno del maggiordomo di voltare le spalle agli ospiti nella casa del compositore per nascondere il segreto del piatto servito.  La ricetta non è un segreto oggi: Consta in un filetto di manzo rosolato al burro, adagiato su una fetta di pane anche rosolata nel burro, sovrastato da una scaloppa di foie gras e generose fette di tartufo, il tutto accompagnato dalla salsa ottenuta deglassando con Madeira.

Rossini aggiunse i tartufi anche per condire l’insalata: “Prendete dell’olio di Provenza, mostarda inglese, aceto di Francia, un po’ di limone, pepe e sale, e mescolate il tutto; poi aggiungete qualche tartufo tagliato a fette sottili.  I tartufi danno a questo condimento una sorta di aureola, fatta apposta per mandare in estasi un ghiottone”.  Più tardi nella sua vita, Rossini ricordò, “ho pianto tre volte nella mia vita: quando mi fischiarono la prima opera, quando sentii suonare Paganini, e quando mi cadde in acqua, durante una gita in barca, un tacchino farcito ai tartufi”.

All’età di 37 anni, Rossini scrisse la 39esima e ultima opera, “Guillaume Tell”, conosciuta oggi soprattutto per la sua ouverture.  Anche se visse altri 40 anni, si ritirò dalla vita pubblica.  Altri compositori—come Elgar, Rachmaninoff, Sibelius, e Ives—si ritirarono molto prima della loro morte.  Ma non erano così famosi o giovani come Rossini.  Ci sono molte teorie sulla sua breve carriera: forse era stanco, forse era stato devastato dalla morte di sua madre, o aveva avuto dei problemi di salute, ecc.

O forse voleva solo dedicarsi al piacere del cibo: “Non conosco un’occupazione migliore del mangiare, cioè, del mangiare veramente.  L’appetito è per lo stomaco quello che l’amore è per il cuore.  Lo stomaco è il direttore che dirige la grande orchestra delle nostre passioni…mangiare, amare, cantare, e dirigere sono i quattro atti di quell’opera comica che è la vita”.

 

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The Gourmet Musician

As Opera Santa Barbara presents “The Barber of Seville” on the 150th anniversary of the composer’s death, it is a fitting time to reflect on the life of Gioacchino Rossini (1792 – 1868), a popular composer of many operas and also a connoisseur of food and wine.

He was born in Pesaro in the present-day Le Marche region of Italy on the Adriatic coast.  His father was a horn player in an orchestra and his mother an aspiring singer.  During his childhood, he was often left in the care of his maternal grandmother.  He learned from her the pleasure of regional recipes and to appreciate the tastes and flavors of Le Marche —in particular truffles — that would accompany him his entire life.

According to legend, as a child, Gioacchino served as an altar boy with the excuse of tasting any leftover wine after the mass.  He was a precocious composer of operas, and he made his debut at the age of 18 with “The Marriage Contract” (La cambiale di matrimonio).  His best-known operas include not only “The Barber of Seville” (Il barbiere di Siviglia), but also “The Italian Girl in Algiers” (L’italiana in Algeri), “Cinderella” (La Cenerentola), and “Othello” (Otello).

During his travels in Europe for operatic performances, he developed an appreciation for foods and wines from disparate places.  In 1823 he met the famous French chef Antonin Carême, who was in charge of the kitchen of the noble Rothschild family.  They became life-long friends sharing a common passion for food.

It was in Paris at the Cafè Anglais that the famous Filetto alla Rossini (o Tournedos à la Rossini) was born.  Rossini was in the habit of asking for variations to dishes on the menu, to enrich them according to his tastes.  As this particular lunch, Rossini asked the chef to change the recipe of the fillet, adding truffle.  The offended chef did not intend to take his suggestion, to which Rossini replied, “Alors, tournez le dos!” (So, turn your back!)  A different anecdote recounts that the name came about because of the butler’s need to turn his back on guests in the composer’s house to hide the secret of the dish served.  The recipe is not a secret today:  The dish consists of a fillet of beef browned in butter, lying on a slice of bread browned in butter, topped by foie gras and slices of truffle, accompanied by a sauce of deglazed Madeira.

Rossini even added truffles to his salad dressing: “Take oil from Provence, English mustard, French vinegar, a little lemon, pepper, and salt and mix together; then add some truffles cut into thin slices.  The truffles give this condiment a kind of halo, made just to send a glutton to ecstasy.”  Later in life, Rossini recalled “I cried three times in my life:  when they whistled at my first opera, when I heard Paganini play, and when a turkey stuffed with truffles fell into the water during a boat trip.”

At the age of 37, Rossini wrote his 39th and final opera, “William Tell” (Guillaume Tell), known today mostly for its overture.  Even though he lived 40 more years, he withdrew from public life.  Other composers, like Elgar, Rachmaninoff, Sibelius, and Ives, retired long before their deaths.  But none was as famous or as young as Rossini.  There are a lot of theories about his brief career:  maybe he was tired, maybe he was devastated by the death of his mother, maybe there was a shift in politics or his health.

Or maybe he just wanted to dedicate himself to the enjoyment of food: “I know of no more admirable occupation than eating, that is, really eating.  Appetite is for the stomach what love is for the heart.  The stomach is the conductor, who rules the grand orchestra of our passions, and rouses it to action….Eating, loving, singing and digesting are, in truth, the four acts of the comic opera known as life….”

 

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