At Least 10 Ways to Drink Coffee in Italy

Italians’ passion for coffee is well known throughout the world.  In fact, coffee is so integrated into Italian culture and its “rules” are so precise that foreigners often struggle to understand how to order the national drink.  For a review, see the post, Il Culto del Caffè, June 16, 2016.

Recently, our Santa Barbara Italian conversation group took a language course from a delightful teacher.  Eight of us talked non-stop, cooked together, studied grammar, and learned about Italian history, culture, and customs.  We shared “Dieci modi di bere il caffè in Italia”—10 ways to drink coffee in Italy:

  1. Caffè

Espresso is the “normal” coffee.  In other words, espresso is the default setting.  If don’t want to wave your foreign passport in public, it’s better not to use the word “espresso” but instead to ask for “un caffè, per favore” at the bar.

  1. Ristretto

Caffè ristretto or basso (restricted or short) has less water and is therefore a very small coffee, at times only a few drops.

  1. Lungo

Caffè lungo is prepared by adding more water than usual, thus obtaining a coffee with more caffeine than normal.  If it is served in a large cup, you have American coffee, which Italians sometimes call acqua sporca (dirty water).

  1. Macchiato

This type of coffee comes from an ancient Milanese custom, which consisted of diluting coffee in milk to make it drinkable even for children.  It is served in a small cup.

  1. Cappuccino

This is prepared in a large cup with coffee and whipped milk and foam.  It is consumed almost exclusively at breakfast.  If the milk is not whipped and is served in a glass, you have a caffellate.  Italians never order either after lunch or dinner because they shiver at the thought of hot milk hitting a full stomach.  If foreigners want to break this rule, it would be polite to excuse yourself to the barista.

  1. Marocchino

It looks like a small cappuccino, but in reality, it is prepared with coffee, liquid cream and cocoa.  You can drink it almost exclusively in Turin or Milan.  Another regional coffee is caffè alla nocciola (hazelnut coffee) from Naples, which is a frothy espresso with hazelnut cream.

  1. Mocaccino

A mocaccino is a cappuccino with chocolate and sometimes served with the addition of cocoa powder.  It is prepared in a glass in order to show the layers of coffee, chocolate, and milk foam.

  1. Corretto

In a caffè corretto (corrected or laced), you add a dose—large or small—of grappa, brandy, or other alcoholic beverage.

  1. Shakerato

This is coffee made very cold with ice.  It can be consumed sweetened or bitter.

  1. Hag

Hag espresso coffee is decaffeinated coffee.

 

Posted in Abitudini, Cucina italiana, English, Foto, Italia, Milano, Napoli, Santa Barbara | 4 Comments

I roghi delle vanità

“Bonfire of the Vanities” è un romanzo satirico americano del 1987 di Tom Wolfe.  È un dramma sull’ambizione, il razzismo, la classe sociale, la politica, e l’avidità a New York negli anni ’80.  Il titolo è un riferimento ai storici roghi delle vanità, che avvennero nella Firenze rinascimentale sotto il dominio di Girolamo Savonarola, che ordinò la combustione di oggetti considerati peccaminosi, come cosmetici, specchi, libri, strumenti musicali, e arte.

Chi era questo Savonarola, le cui statue raffigurano una figura spaventosa, incappucciata, e gesticolante?  Nato a Ferrara nel 1452, Savonarola proveniva da una famiglia nobile.  Iniziò i suoi studi in medicina, ma presto lasciò per diventare frate domenicano.  Nel 1982 conquistò i fiorentini con le sue prediche appassionate.  I suoi seguaci furono chiamati “piagnoni” per le lacrime versate durante i sermoni di Savonarola.

Si oppose ai Medici, signori di Firenze, e la chiesa dei Borgia.  Al tempo la Chiesa Cattolica attraversava un momento di estrema decadenza.   Sotto la guida di Alessandro VI, aveva toccato il fondo.  Aveva trasformato Roma in una città-bordello che poi Lutero paragonò a Sodoma.  Il critico più aspro di tale degenerazione fu proprio Savonarola: “Nella lussuria ti sei fatta meretrice sfacciata, tu sei peggio che bestia, tu sei mostro abominevole”.

Savonarola era noto per le sue profezie di gloria civica e per la sua denuncia della corruzione del clero, del dominio dispotico, e dello sfruttamento dei poveri.  Alla sua esortazione, i Fiorentini espulsero i dominanti Medici e stabilirono una breve repubblica.  Savonarola istituì un’estrema campagna puritana.  Il Papa lo tollerò per un po’ e poi lo bandì dalla predicazione.  Savonarola sfidò il Papa e continuò i roghi delle vanità.  Il Papa allora lo scomunicò.

Savonarola accennò a fare miracoli per dimostrare la sua missione divina.  Un predicatore francescano rivale propose di testare quella missione facendolo camminando attraverso il fuoco.  Il primo processo a fuoco a Firenze in oltre 400 anni fu fissato per l’Aprile del 1498.  Una folla riempì la piazza centrale desiderosa di vedere se Dio intervenisse.  Ritardi nel concorso e un temporale costrinsero alla cancellazione della competizione.  La folla arrabbiata accusò Savonarola per il fiasco.

L’opinione popolare si rivoltò contro il predicatore.  I Fiorentini lo catturarono e richiesero il ritorno dei Medici.  Nel maggio del 1498, il frate domenicano fu impiccato e poi bruciato sul rogo a Firenze con i suoi fratelli Domenico e Silvestro, con l’accusa di eresia.  Le ceneri furono poi disperse nell’Arno dal Ponte Vecchio.

Qual è l’eredità di Savonarola?  I primi riformatori protestanti lodarono le sue idee religiose.  A metà del diciannovesimo secolo, i “nuovi piagnoni” trovarono ispirazione negli scritti e nei sermoni del frate per il risorgimento italiano.  Sottolineando il suo attivismo politico sul suo puritanesimo e sul suo conservatorismo culturale, restaurarono la voce di Savonarola per un cambiamento politico radicale.  L’enciclopedia cattolica su Girolamo Savonarola conclude: “All’inizio Savonarola era pieno di zelo, pietà, e sacrificio per la rigenerazione della vita religiosa, ed era portato a scagliarsi contro queste virtù a causa del suo fanatismo, ostinazione e disobbedienza.  Non era eretico in materia di fede”.

Posted in Firenze, Foto, Italia, Italiano, Libri, Storia, Toscana, Vaticano | Leave a comment

Bonfire of the Vanities

“Bonfire of the Vanities” is a 1987 satirical novel by Tom Wolfe.  It is a drama about ambition, racism, social class, politics, and greed in New York City during the ‘80s.  The title is a reference to the historical bonfires of the vanities, which took place in Renaissance Florence under the rule of Girolamo Savonarola, who ordered the burning of objects considered sinful, like cosmetics, mirrors, books, musical instruments, and art.

Who was this Savonarola, whose statues depict a scary, hooded, gesticulating figure?  Born in Ferrara in 1452, Savonarola came from a noble family.  He began his studies in medicine but soon left to become a Dominican friar.  By 1982 he conquered the Florentines with his passionate sermons.  His followers were called “piagnoni” for the tears that poured down during his fiery preaching.

Savonarola opposed the Medici family, lords of Florence, and the Church of the Borgias.  At the time, the Catholic Church was going through a period of extreme decadence.  Under Pope Alexander VI, it had reached bottom.  He had transformed Rome into a city-brothel which Luther compared to Sodom.  And Savonarola was a bitter critic of the church: “In your lust you became a brash prostitute, you are worse than a beast, you are an abominable monster”.

Savonarola was known for his prophecies of civic glory, and his denunciation of clerical corruption, despotic rule, and exploitation of the poor.  At his urging, the Florentines expelled the ruling Medici family and established a brief republic.  Savonarola instituted an extreme puritanical campaign.  The Pope tolerated him for a while, and then banned him from preaching.  Savonarola defied the Pope and continued his bonfires of the vanities.  The Pope then excommunicated him.

Savonarola hinted at performing miracles to prove his divine mission.  A rival Franciscan preacher proposed to test that mission by walking through fire.  The first trial by fire in Florence in over 400 years was set for April, 1498.  A crowd filled the central square eager to see if God would intervene.  Delays in the contest and then a rainstorm forced the cancellation of the proceedings.  The angry crowd blamed Savonarola for the fiasco.

Popular opinion turned against the preacher.  The Florentines captured him and demanded the return of the Medicis.  In May of 1498, the Dominican friar was hanged and then burned at the stake in Florence with his brothers Domenico and Silvestro, on charges of heresy.  The ashes were then dispersed in the Arno by the Ponte Vecchio.

What is Savonarola’s legacy?  The early Protestant reformers praised his religious ideas.  In the mid-nineteenth century, the “New Piagnoni” found inspiration in the friar’s writings and sermons for Italy’s Risorgimento.  By emphasizing his political activism over his puritanism and cultural conservatism, they restored Savonarola’s voice for radical political change.  The Catholic Encyclopedia entry on Girolamo Savonarola concludes with, “In the beginning Savonarola was filled with zeal, piety, and self-sacrifice for the regeneration of religious life.   He was led to offend against these virtues by his fanaticism, obstinacy, and disobedience.  He was not a heretic in matters of faith.”

Posted in English, Firenze, Foto, Italia, Libri, New York, Politica, Toscana, Vaticano | 2 Comments