Luciano Pavarotti

Luciano Pavarotti was probably the greatest tenor of the twentieth century and the most beloved since Enrico Caruso (1873 – 1921).  He was also one of the most commercially successful tenors of all time in part because he won crossover fame as a popular superstar.  “I would like to be remembered as the man who brought opera to the masses,” he said, and so he did.

Since his death in 2007, several events have honored his legacy.  In 2015, his wife Nicoletta Mantovani opened the Casa-Museo Luciano Pavarotti in Modena, which features photographs, costumes, awards, and his own paintings and recordings in their former large and colorful home.  In 2017 on the tenth anniversary of his passing, a star-studded evening of performances was held at the Arena in Verona, a first century A.D. Roman amphitheater that, with its 30,000-spectator capacity, is the world’s largest open-air opera venue.

Then in 2019 “Pavarotti,” Ron Howard’s documentary, was released.  It features interviews with family members, opera artists, and managers and promoters who all speak glowingly of the tenor.   It is produced by, among others, a representative of Decca Records, Pavarotti’s recording company, and presumably also has the family’s blessing.  Hence, the film is an unapologetic tribute to Pavarotti’s genius that only hints at a few of the artist’s flaws.

In my opinion, the documentary does two things very well.  First, it documents the trajectory of Pavarotti’s career, which began in Italy in 1961.  He made his American debut in 1965 in Miami in Donizetti’s Lucia di Lammermoor and shortly thereafter his La Scala debut in Puccini’s La bohème.  His 1966 role in Donizetti’s La fille du regiment at the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, earned him the title of “King of High Cs.”  But it was this opera at New York’s Metropolitan Opera in 1972 that drove the crowd wild resulting in 17 curtain calls.

Pavarotti became even better known for his rendition of the aria, “Nessun dorma” from Puccini’s Turandot, which became the theme song of BBC’s coverage of the 1990 FIFA World Cup in Italy (and eventually his trademark song). Then came the first Three Tenors concert, held on the eve of the 1990 FIFA World Cup Final at the ancient Baths of Caracalla in Rome with fellow tenors Plácido Domingo and José Carreras and conductor Zubin Mehta.  It captivated a global audience, and the recording became the largest selling classical record of all time.  Many Three Tenors concerts followed.

The other aspect of the documentary that I really enjoyed was the portrayal of the artist’s winning personality.  He was almost childlike with a beaming smile, witty rejoiners, and good cheer that could charm the pants off of almost anyone (well, that is another story).  You are almost transported when you see his giant smile and sparkling eyes.

I thought the documentary was disappointing in at least two ways.  Like many compelling heroes, Pavarotti had many faults, which the documentary barely addresses.  He often had difficulty remembering his lines.  Toward the end of his career, he became demanding and unpredictable.  He blew off rehearsals and cancelled appearances.  Several opera houses, including Covent Garden in London and the Chicago Lyric Opera considered him persona non grata—the latter after he cancelled 26 of his last 41 scheduled appearances.  The documentary only hints at cancellations due to the health of one of his daughters.  But it’s important to balance these flaws with his huge generosity of spirit and his countless concerts performed for charity.

What the documentary really lacks is insight into his unbelievable voice—a rich and beautiful instrument that is unmatched today.  Supposedly he could not read music, which makes his talent even more compelling. Pavarotti credits Joan Sutherland with teaching him how to breathe.  The athletic demands of opera?  Without a microphone he projected his voice above a full orchestra to be clearly heard in the upper balconies of a 4,000-seat opera house, and he did this for more than three decades.   With all of his accomplishments, he was indeed a superstar.

 

Posted in Arte, English, Film, Foto, Italia, Milano, Musica, New York, Storia, Verona | 1 Comment

Ristorante, trattoria, osteria

In Italia ci sono diversi tipi di ristorazione—cioè, ristoranti, trattorie ed osterie.  Le differenze oggi non sono così grani come in passato, perché molte trattorie e ristoranti oggi si chiamano osterie e viceversa.  L’evoluzione è continuata con l’arrivo dell’agriturismo e il Movimento Slow Food.

L’osteria è un luogo sviluppatosi tra la Prima e la Seconda guerra mondiale.  Nelle osterie si offriva riparo, qualche tavola, molto vino e pochissimo cibo.  Fino agli anni sessanta, non offrivano che qualche piatto caldo, come la trippa o il minestrone.  Con il passare del tempo, hanno iniziato a servire pasti semplici.  Di solito, non c’era un menù e i piatti cambiavano quotidianamente, secondo il mercato locale.  Negli anni si offriva anche un menù con due o tre portate ad un prezzo fisso, incluso il vino.

Le trattorie si sono sviluppate tra gli anni sessanta e settanta ed offrivano più piatti delle osterie.  Tradizionalmente, erano di proprietà familiare, informali e rustiche, servivano cibo locale e fresco, senza pretese ed a prezzi ragionevoli.  I ristoranti, d’altra parte, offrono tradizionalmente pasti completi o piatti à la carta da un menù stampato a prezzi fissi.  Alcuni hanno un responsabile di sala, un sommelier e uno staff professionale per la cucina, anche se non tutti i ristoranti sono uguali.

Poiché le distinzioni tra questi tipi di ristoranti sono sfumate, secondo la guida, Osterie d’Italia 2019, almeno quattro diversi tipi di “trattoria” sono emerse: tradizionale, moderna, agriturismo, e ristorante tradizionale.  Nella trattoria tradizionale, il centro dell’attenzione è gli ingredienti crudi la cui origine è strettamente locale.  Le ricette dei piatti sono tramandate tra una generazione all’altra.  I tavoli sono apparecchiati in modo informale e semplice, spesso da parenti stretti.  La trattoria moderna può avere arredi minimalisti e un aspetto meno tradizionale senza tovaglie a quadretti e piatti o oggetti contadini alle pareti.  Ma ancora più importante, gli chef tendono a rielaborare i piatti tradizionali per dare loro un tocco moderno e una presentazione insolita.  Questi posti sono spesso gestiti da giovani, spesso amici di lunga data con una passione per il vino e cercando così di rimodellare la storia in modo contemporaneo.

I ristoranti tradizionali di solito sono più eleganti con più servizi formali.  In generale i piatti riflettano la tradizione, anche se cercano di stare al passo con i tempi.  Il settore agriturismo è un modello in aumento.  Vengono offerti anche alloggi in modo che gli ospiti possano vedere la produzione di alcuni alimenti.   I piatti sono preparati con verdure, formaggi e carne prodotti a pochi metri dalla propria tavola.  La cucina è più o meno rigorosamente legata alla tradizione.  Sulla tavola potrebbero arrivare il risotto, le lasagne, la zuppa, l’oca al forno o il capretto arrosto, così come una ricca selezione di salumi e formaggi da assaggiare.

Seconda la guida Osterie, la migliore ristorazione condivide le seguenti qualità: un ambiente accogliente e conviviale, un buon rapporto qualità-prezzo, l’uso di prodotti locali quando possibile, la possibilità di abbinare cibo e vino e anche vino della casa.  La guida elenca 1.617 osterie e le migliori sono indicate con il simbolo della lumaca del Movimento Slow Food.  Nel 1986 un giornalista enogastronomico italiano, Carlo Petrini, ha iniziato questo movimento poiché era preoccupato per la crescente diffusione dei fast food che iniziava a scalzare l’antica cultura culinaria italiana. L’apertura di McDonald’s a Piazza di Spagna a Roma è stata la goccia che ha fatto traboccare il vaso. Oggi il simbolo della lumaca è un prestigioso distintivo d’onore per le migliori osterie in Italia.

Posted in Abitudini, Cucina italiana, Foto, Italia, Italiano, Storia, Vino | Leave a comment

Restaurant, Trattoria, Osteria

In Italy there are different types of eating establishments—namely, restaurants, trattorias, and osterias.  The differences today don’t mean as much as in the past, as many trattorias and even restaurants today call themselves osterias, and vice versa.  And the evolution continues with the advent of agritourism and the Slow Food Movement.

The osteria, or inn, was developed between the First and Second World Wars.  In these taverns shelter was needed, a few tables, lots of wine, and very little food.  Until the 1960s, only a few hot dishes were offered, such as a pot of boiled tripe or minestrone.  Over time, they served simple meals.  Usually there was no menu and the offerings changed daily, according to the local market.  Over time, two or three courses might be offered at a fixed price, including wine.

Trattorias evolved between the 60s and 80s and offered more options than osterias.  Traditionally, they were family-owned, casual, and rustic places that served fresh, unassuming, and conventional local food at reasonable prices.  Restaurants, on the other hand, traditionally offer complete meals or à la carte dishes presented on a printed menu with fixed prices.  Some have a host or hostess, a sommelier and a professional kitchen staff, although not all are the same.

As the distinction between these types of restaurants have blurred, according to the guide, Osterie d’Italia 2019, at least four different types of “trattorias” have emerged: traditional, modern, agritourism, and traditional restaurant.  In the traditional trattoria, the focus is on the raw ingredients whose origin is strictly local.  The dishes are handed down from generation to generation.  The tables are managed in an informal and simple way, in many cases by family members divided between the kitchen and tables.  The modern trattoria might have minimalist furniture and it might have a more updated look without checkered tablecloths and plates or peasant tools on the walls.  But more importantly, its dishes tend to rethink traditional dishes with a modern touch and an unusual presentation.  These places are often run by young people, most often long-time friends with a passion for wine, who are trying to reshape history in a contemporary way.

Traditional restaurants usually are more elegant with more service formalities.  In general, their dishes reflect tradition while attempting to keep in step with the times.  The agritourism sector is a model on the rise.  The idea here is to serve dishes prepared with vegetables cultivated, cheeses produced, and meat raised just a few meters from one’s table.  The cuisine is more or less rigorously linked to tradition.  On the table, risotto, lasagna, soup, baked goose or roast kid might arrive, as well as a rich selection of cold cuts and cheeses to try.

According to the Osteria guide, the best establishments share the same qualities including:  a welcome and convivial environment; fair value for money; use of local products whenever possible; and knowledge of how to pair wines, even the house wine.  The guide lists 1,617 osterias or trattorias, and the best ones are indicated by the snail symbol of the Slow Food Movement (SFM).  In 1986, an Italian food and wine journalist Carlo Petrini started the SFM.  He was haunted by the spectre of fast food companies eroding Italy’s ancient culinary culture.  The opening of McDonald’s on the Spanish Steps in Rome was the last straw.  Today the snail symbol is a prestigious badge of honor for Italy’s best trattorias.

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