The Gourmet Musician

As Opera Santa Barbara presents “The Barber of Seville” on the 150th anniversary of the composer’s death, it is a fitting time to reflect on the life of Gioacchino Rossini (1792 – 1868), a popular composer of many operas and also a connoisseur of food and wine.

He was born in Pesaro in the present-day Le Marche region of Italy on the Adriatic coast.  His father was a horn player in an orchestra and his mother an aspiring singer.  During his childhood, he was often left in the care of his maternal grandmother.  He learned from her the pleasure of regional recipes and to appreciate the tastes and flavors of Le Marche —in particular truffles — that would accompany him his entire life.

According to legend, as a child, Gioacchino served as an altar boy with the excuse of tasting any leftover wine after the mass.  He was a precocious composer of operas, and he made his debut at the age of 18 with “The Marriage Contract” (La cambiale di matrimonio).  His best-known operas include not only “The Barber of Seville” (Il barbiere di Siviglia), but also “The Italian Girl in Algiers” (L’italiana in Algeri), “Cinderella” (La Cenerentola), and “Othello” (Otello).

During his travels in Europe for operatic performances, he developed an appreciation for foods and wines from disparate places.  In 1823 he met the famous French chef Antonin Carême, who was in charge of the kitchen of the noble Rothschild family.  They became life-long friends sharing a common passion for food.

It was in Paris at the Cafè Anglais that the famous Filetto alla Rossini (o Tournedos à la Rossini) was born.  Rossini was in the habit of asking for variations to dishes on the menu, to enrich them according to his tastes.  As this particular lunch, Rossini asked the chef to change the recipe of the fillet, adding truffle.  The offended chef did not intend to take his suggestion, to which Rossini replied, “Alors, tournez le dos!” (So, turn your back!)  A different anecdote recounts that the name came about because of the butler’s need to turn his back on guests in the composer’s house to hide the secret of the dish served.  The recipe is not a secret today:  The dish consists of a fillet of beef browned in butter, lying on a slice of bread browned in butter, topped by foie gras and slices of truffle, accompanied by a sauce of deglazed Madeira.

Rossini even added truffles to his salad dressing: “Take oil from Provence, English mustard, French vinegar, a little lemon, pepper, and salt and mix together; then add some truffles cut into thin slices.  The truffles give this condiment a kind of halo, made just to send a glutton to ecstasy.”  Later in life, Rossini recalled “I cried three times in my life:  when they whistled at my first opera, when I heard Paganini play, and when a turkey stuffed with truffles fell into the water during a boat trip.”

At the age of 37, Rossini wrote his 39th and final opera, “William Tell” (Guillaume Tell), known today mostly for its overture.  Even though he lived 40 more years, he withdrew from public life.  Other composers, like Elgar, Rachmaninoff, Sibelius, and Ives, retired long before their deaths.  But none was as famous or as young as Rossini.  There are a lot of theories about his brief career:  maybe he was tired, maybe he was devastated by the death of his mother, maybe there was a shift in politics or his health.

Or maybe he just wanted to dedicate himself to the enjoyment of food: “I know of no more admirable occupation than eating, that is, really eating.  Appetite is for the stomach what love is for the heart.  The stomach is the conductor, who rules the grand orchestra of our passions, and rouses it to action….Eating, loving, singing and digesting are, in truth, the four acts of the comic opera known as life….”

 

Posted in Cucina italiana, English, Foto, Italia, Musica, Santa Barbara, Storia | 1 Comment

I dipinti di Leonardo: Cosa c’è in un prezzo?

Ci sono circa 20 dipinti di Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519) che si crede esistano oggi.  Non è possibile saperne il numero esatto perché c’è più o meno un flusso costante di attribuzioni contestate ed attribuzioni recenti dovute al lavoro accademico ed ai progressi tecnologici nello studio delle opere d’arte.  Ci sono anche opere in cui Leonardo potrebbe essere stato aiutato…o no.  Nessuno dei suoi dipinti è firmato.  Il piccolo numero di dipinti sopravvissuti è dovuto in parte alla sperimentazione a volte disastrosa con nuove tecniche, alla sua procrastinazione cronica e, naturalmente, alle opere perdute.

La maggior parte dei dipinti di Leonardo da Vinci si trovano nei principali musei del mondo, tra cui diversi nella Galleria degli Uffizi e diversi al Louvre.  Ce n’è sono uno in visione pubblica nelle Americhe.  Ginevra de’ Benci è un ritratto a tempera e olio su tavola di un’aristocratica fiorentina probabilmente dipinto per commemorare il suo matrimonio.  La National Gallery of Art di Washington, DC, l’acquistò nel 1967 per oltre $5 milioni, un record all’epoca, dal principe del Lichtenstein.

Nel novembre 2017, un altro quadro di da Vinci è arrivato sul mercato.  Salvator Mundi, raffigura Gesù Cristo come salvatore del mondo, è stato venduto all’asta da un proprietario privato per $450 milioni, l’equivalente di circa 381 milioni di euro, l’opera d’arte più costosa di sempre.  Il nuovo proprietario è sconosciuto a questo punto.

Salvator Mundi ha una storia complicata.  Leonardo lo dipinse in Francia per Luigi XII intorno al 1500.  Dopo essere stato creduto perso per moltissimo tempo, è stato ritrovato nei primi anni Duemila e venduto una prima volta per meno di 10.000 dollari nel 2005.  Da lì in poi—una volta restaurato e autenticato—è stato comprato e venduto più volte da collezionisti e commercianti d’arte, per prezzi sempre più alti.  Poi è arrivato da Christie, la casa d’asta, dove il prezzo ha superato di gran lunga Women of Algiers di Picasso, che nel 2015 hanno venduto per $179,4 milioni.

L’enorme cifra è ancora più sorprendente perché ci sono alcuni storici dell’arte che mettono in dubbio l’autenticità e la condizione del dipinto.  Uno specialista di Leonardo ha affermato che “[Leonardo] preferiva il movimento a spirale; è un buon lavoro in studio con un pizzico di Leonardo nella migliore delle ipotesi, ed è molto danneggiato”.  Un altro ha detto che il quadro era stato “aggressivamente ripulito…specialmente sul viso e sui capelli di Cristo”.

Il prezzo è incredibile anche perché questo è un momento in cui il mercato dei vecchi maestri si sta ritirando a causa della preferenza dei collezionisti per l’arte contemporanea.  E il prezzo attesta anche il grado in cui il marketing guida il valore dell’arte.  La campagna di marketing di Christie non ha precedenti.  Ci sono state le visualizzazioni pre-asta del dipinto di 27.000 a Hong Kong, Londra, San Francisco e New York.  Christie ha assunto un’agenzia esterna per pubblicizzare il lavoro, includendo la produzione di un video in cui la presentazione del dipinto è paragonato alla “scoperta di un nuovo pianeta”.  Christie ha dichiarato l’opera “l’ultimo Da Vinci” e ha collocato l’opera d’arte nella categoria ‘opere contemporanee’, forse per cercare di aggirare un esame minuzioso degli esperti dei vecchi maestri.

Ma Salvator Mundi non è “l’ultimo Da Vinci” in mani private.  Ci sono due dipinti chiamati Madonna of the Yarnwinder” –uno è conosciuto come la Madonna di Buccleuch e l’altro come la Madonna di Lansdowne.  Entrambi hanno storie complicate.  Ma se un Yarnwinder venisse all’asta e fosse interamente attribuibile a Leonardo, sarebbe probabilmente la prima vendita di $1 miliardo.

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Leonardo’s Paintings:  What’s in a Price?

There are about 20 paintings by Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519) believed to exist today.  A precise number is impossible because there is a more or less constant stream of disputed attributions and recent attributions due to scholarship and technological advances in studying artwork. There are also studio works that Leonardo may or may not have had a hand in.  None of his paintings is signed.  The small number of surviving paintings is due in part to da Vinci’s sometimes disastrous experimentation with new techniques, his chronic procrastination, and, of course, lost works.

Most of his paintings are in major museums, including several at the Uffizi Gallery and several at the Louvre.  There is only one on public view in the Americas.  Ginevra de’ Benci is an oil-on-wood portrait of a Florentine aristocrat possibly painted to commemorate her marriage.  It was acquired by the National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, in 1967, for $5 million—a record at the time—from the princely house of Liechtenstein.

Recently another da Vinci painting came on the market.  Salvator Mundi, which depicts Christ as savior of the world, was sold at auction by a private owner for $450 million, the most expensive work of art sold to date.  The buyer was a Saudi prince.

Salvator Mundi has a complicated history.  Leonardo da Vinci supposedly painted it in France for Louis XII around 1500.  After it was believed lost for centuries, it was found in the early 2000s and sold for first time for $10,000 in 2005. From then on—once restored and authenticated—it was bought and sold by collectors and art dealers for higher and higher prices.  Then it came to the auction house Christie’s where the price far surpassed Picasso’s Women of Algiers, which sold for $179.4 million in 2015.

The enormous sum at auction is even more astounding because there are several highly respected art historians who question the painting’s authenticity and condition.  One Leonardo specialist claimed that “[da Vinci] preferred twisted movement.  It’s a good studio work with a little Leonardo at best, and it’s very damaged.”  Another said that the painting was “aggressively over cleaned…especially in the face and hair of Christ.”

The price is also remarkable at a time when the market for old masters is contracting because of collectors’ preference for contemporary art.   And the price also attests to the degree to which marketing drives the value of art.  Christie’s marketing campaign was unprecedented.   There were pre-auction viewings by 27,000 people in Hong Kong, London, San Francisco, and New York.  Christie’s enlisted an outside agency to advertise the work including the production of a video in which the presentation of the painting is likened to the “discovery of a new planet.”  Christie’s called the work “the last Da Vinci” and placed the artwork in the category of a contemporary sale, perhaps to try to circumvent the scrutiny of old masters’ experts.

But Salvator Mundi is not “the last Da Vinci” in private hands.  There are two paintings called “Madonna of the Yarnwinder”—one is known as the Buccleuch Madonna and the other as the Lansdowne Madonna.  They both have complicated histories.  But if one Yarnwinder came to auction and it was fully attributable to Leonardo, it would probably be the first $1 billion sale.

My friend, Anthony Panzera, an artist and art historian, read the above post and added the following interesting information about the two “Madoonna of the Yarnwinder” paintings:

“The first painting, owned by the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensberry, is housed with his collection in Drumlanrig Castle, Scotland.  The citation reads:

Madonna of the Yarnwinder

Workshop of Leonardo da Vinci

1501-1507 or later

The small panel, 48.3 x 36.9 cm, is extensively retouched and overpainted, with severe cracking, and with the “…pronounced distortions in the faces of the Virgin and the Child argue emphatically against an attribution to Leonardo.”

The second panel is referred to as the New York Madonna of the Yarnwinder; I’m not sure where the tile Lansdowne comes from.  It’s citation reads:

Madonna of the Yarnwinder

 Giacomo Salai

1501 – 1507

50 x 36.4

Salai was one the studio assistants and is a beneficiary in Leonardo’s will.  It is considered a workshop product with the possibility of Leonardo’s hand in the painting of the face.  The infra-red reflectography  “…make it clear that it is not a copy executed at a much later date.”  Meaning that parts of the painting (the landscape in the background including the design) was probably also by the hand of Leonardo.  Two contemporary letters, dated 1501 and 1509,  refer to a small panel of the same subject, but with a small basket of yarns on which the child’s feet (hence the name) is resting.  As neither of the current Yarnwinder paintings show any signs of the basket of yarns it must be assumed that the original painting by Leonardo is lost.

All we have to do now is to find that little painting.”

This information comes from the book:

LEONARDO da VINCI

1452 – 1519

The Complete Paintings and Drawings

by Frank Zollner

Taschen, London

2003

 

Posted in Abitudini, Arte, English, Firenze, Foto, Italia, Storia | 2 Comments