Music from the Holocaust

It was 1988 when Francesco Lotoro, a pianist and composer from Barletta in Puglia, first heard about the music composed in the death camps.  He felt that the music should be heard, and he embarked on a very ambitious project to collect as much as he could find.  More than 30 years later, he is building a citadel, which is known formally as the Istituto di Letteratura Musicale Concentrazionaria—to house and play the more than 8,000 works he has collected and catalogued.

Lotoro has been all over the world and has found symphonies, operas, folk songs, and many other genres.  On a visit to Prague in 1990, he discovered a five-act fairy tale opera, “Three Hairs of the Wise Old Man,” by Rudolf Karel, a Czech composer.  Karel wrote the opera with medicinal charcoal (to treat dysentery) on sheets of toilet paper, which were later smuggled out of the camp in laundry sacks.  Karel died at Terezin Theresienstadt just north of Prague, a camp the Nazis had set up as a model community to try to trick the world, through propaganda films, that they were treating the Jews humanely.

Other prisoners wrote their music on food wrappers, potato sacks, newsprint or whatever they could find.  It was a testament to their resourcefulness, but also to their need for music to soothe the soul, to escape, to remember their former lives, and to comment on their experiences.  Being in an orchestra in a concentration camp saved some lives, but the experience was often humiliating.  Musicians were forced to play “command music” as prisoners were marched off to forced labor, and they also were forced to play concerts for SS officers and visiting “dignitaries.”  But when the prisoners played music on their own initiative, it gave them consolation and hope.

Other musicians and historians have joined in Lotoro’s passion to preserve the musical history of the Holocaust.  Some are staging performances, while others are searching for music banned by the Nazis as “degenerate,” much of which was composed by Jews.  Also expanding is the search for musical instruments, books about music, and original or printed scores stolen by the Nazis.

But Lotoro’s vision is perhaps the broadest.  He has also arranged and recorded works composed in the camps.  In some cases, he is writing music to finish incomplete works.  Even his collection has expanded to include works from political and religious prisoners in many countries and from musicians of any national, social or religious background.

Lotoro’s citadel – Istituto di Letteratura Musicale Concentrazionaria — will include a museum, a library and a theater at a cost of about $45 million.  The city of Barletta donated a two-acre site of an abandoned brandy distillery and is also providing an additional $2.7 million for the construction of a 30-room hotel nearby for students, scholars and others to study the music.  The Italian government has provided $5 million in funds so far, and Lotoro is hopeful of receiving up to $36 million more.  He is also raising money through an international fund-raising campaign.

Helping him on this project is his wife Grazia.  Raised Catholic, they converted to Judaism in 2004.  Then Francesco discovered that his grandfather’s grandfather was Jewish and had converted to Christianity because it was difficult to be a Jew at that time in Barletta.  For this modest musician who has lived in this small Adriatic town all his life, the completion of the citadel will be a lifetime dream to leave a musical legacy.

Posted in Abitudini, Arte, Comunità ebrea, English, Foto, Italia, Musica, Puglia, Storia | 1 Comment

A caccia del miglior gelato

Sempre più gelaterie aprono negli Stati Uniti, e di conseguenza abbiamo bisogno di imparare dall’Italia come distinguere il vero gelato da quello finto o di scarsa qualità o anche dall’ice cream.  In generale, il gelato italiano autentico ha meno grassi e zuccheri rispetto all’ice cream e viene centrifugato a una velocità inferiore in modo da incorporare meno aria.  Anche se non è scontato per gli americani, il gelato ha una consistenza più densa dell’ice cream e viene servito ad una temperatura più elevata.  Inoltre per gli italiani il gelato ha un sapore più intenso e naturale.

Ecco alcuni suggerimenti e osservazioni per aiutarti a trovare i migliori gelati, partendo dall’esterno della gelateria.  Solitamente in Italia è bene evitare le gelaterie nelle piazze sovraffollate poichè sono trappole per turisti. Un indizio è un cartone enorme con un cono grande ed una lunga lista di gusti. In generale, i posti migliori sono conosciuti con il passaparola. In estate cerca le lunghe code piuttosto che le pubblicità acchiappa turisti. Quindi, controlla i segnali all’interno del negozio. Le gelaterie italiane devono mostrare gli ingredienti che usano e le migliori sono orgogliosi di farlo; i negozi americani dovrebbero fare altrettanto. Gli ingredienti freschi e naturali sono un requisito per la qualità. Se vedi olio vegetale o colori o aromi artificiali, vai oltre.

Poi, controlla i contenitori per il gelato. Le vaschette di plastica non mantengono il gelato alla giusta temperatura. I contenitori piatti in metallo sono molto meglio. I coperchi indicano che il gelato viene conservato con cura alla giusta temperatura e che la qualità è più importante del corteggiare i clienti con colori e decorazioni. Inoltre, le palette piatte e in metallo sono strumenti migliori per servire il gelato più denso delle tradizionali palette curve per ice cream americano. Secondo i miei amici Cesare e Agnese Maganzani, proprietari della pluripremiata La Gelateria Loggetta di Mantova, “la maggior parte delle gelaterie in Italia espone il gelato in contenitori aperti, che sicuramente attirano l’attenzione sia dei bambini sia degli adulti e probabilmente aumentano gli acquisti d’impulso. Ma l’aria rovina la consistenza del gelato in un’ora o due. Pertanto, servono il gelato da pozzetti coperti in cui sono fatti i quali vengono posti in un banco refrigerato che viene mantenuto a meno 11-12 gradi centigradi”.

Mentre osservi i contenitori, nota anche i colori dei vari gelati. Senza coloranti aggiunti, un gelato di qualità non avrà mai colori accesi, ma solo naturali. Il pistacchio, ad esempio, non sarà verde ma piuttosto marrone. La menta sarà bianca, anziché verde e il limone sarà bianco anziché giallo. I vari frutti di bosco dovrebbero avere colori rossi profondi e smorzati … mai rosa shocking.

E ora, la parte migliore … i gusti! Per cominciare, assapora il fior di latte, il gusto di base italiano; probabilmente non è un buon segno trovare la vaniglia in Italia. Evita anche i luoghi che offrono i preferiti dalla massa come i biscotti, la crema e la gomma da masticare blu. Cerca i gusti alla frutta di stagione. In una buona gelateria non troverai alcun gusto alla frutta che non si possa trovare sul mercato locale. Ad esempio, in qualsiasi momento, la Loggetta di Mantova vende 24 gusti diversi in base alla stagione e alla disponibilità del prodotto. I gusti classici includono fior di latte, nocciola, cioccolato e gianduia (una combinazione di nocciole e cioccolato). I sapori primaverili ed estivi includono fragola, lampone, melone, anguria e pesca. Il fico è disponibile in agosto e settembre; la pera, la mela e il melograno sono disponibili in ottobre, novembre e dicembre. La Loggetta produce anche specialità gastronomiche, come un gelato alla pesca / all’amaretto / al cioccolato, alla mela verde con cannella e un bellissimo sorbetto al lime e zenzero. La Loggetta serve anche sorbetto vegano.

Vale la pena una gita alla gelateria Loggetta in Piazza Broletto a Mantova. Se sei a Santa Barbara, vai a Rori’s Artisanal Creamery a 1024 Coast Village Road.

Posted in Abitudini, Cucina italiana, Foto, Italia, Mantova, Santa Barbara, Vacanze | Leave a comment

On the hunt for the best gelato

As more and more gelato shops, gelaterie, open in the United States, we need to learn from Italy how to distinguish the real thing from fake or poor-quality gelato and also from ice cream.  In general, authentic Italian gelato has less fat and sugar compared to ice cream and it is churned at a slower speed so that less air is incorporated.  While it seems counter-intuitive to Americans, gelato has a denser texture than ice cream and is served at a higher temperature.  What is obvious to Italians is that gelato has a more intense and natural flavor.

Here are some tips and observations to help you find the best, starting from the outside of the store and working in.  First, in Italy, in particular, where there is a gelateria in every piazza, you want to avoid a tourist trap.  One clue is the big cardboard cut-out of a cone with a long list of flavors.  Generally, the best places are known by word-of-mouth.  In the summertime, look for long lines rather than marketing appeals to tourists.  Next, check out the signs inside the store.  Italian gelaterie are required to display their ingredients, and the best are proud to do so; American shops should do this as well.  Fresh, natural ingredients are a prerequisite for quality.  If you see vegetable oil or artificial colors or flavors, keep moving.

Next, check out the gelato containers.  Plastic tubs do not keep the gelato at the appropriate temperature.  Flat, metal tins are much better.  Lids indicate that the gelato is being carefully kept at the right temperature and that quality is more important than wooing customers with colors and decorations.  Also, flat, metal spades are better tools to serve the denser-textured gelato than traditional American curved ice cream scoops. According to my friends, Cesare and Agnese Maganzani, owners of the award-winning La Gelateria Loggetta in Mantua, “most gelaterie in Italy use open containers to attract the attention of both children and adults, which probably increases impulse sales.  But air ruins the consistency of the gelato in an hour or so.  It is better to serve the gelato in covered containers in a refrigerated counter that is maintained at less than 52 degrees Fahrenheit.”

As you observe the containers, note also the colors of the various gelatos displayed.  Without added coloring, a quality gelato will never have vibrant colors, only natural ones.  Pistacchio, for example, will not be green but sort of brownish.  Mint will be white rather than green, and lemon will be white rather than yellow.  Berry flavors should have deep, muted red colors … never shocking pink.

And now, the best part of all… the flavors!  For starters, take a taste of the fior di latte, Italy’s basic flavor; it’s probably not a good sign in Italy to find vanilla.  Also avoid places that offer crowd favorites like cookies and cream and blue bubblegum.  Look for seasonal fruit flavors.  In a good gelateria you won’t find any flavor of fruit that can’t be found at the local market.  For example, at any one time, Loggetta in Mantua sells 24 flavors that vary according to season and product availability.  Classic flavors include fior di latte, hazelnut, chocolate, and gianduja (a chocolate-hazelnut combination).  Spring and summer flavors include strawberry, raspberry, melon, watermelon, and peach. Fig is available in August and September; pear, apple, and pomegranate are available in October, November, and December. Loggetta also makes its own gourmet specialties, such as a peach / amaretto / chocolate gelato, green apple with cinnamon, and a beautiful lime-ginger sorbet.  And Loggetta also serves vegan sorbet.

It’s worth a trip to gelateria Loggetta in Piazza Broletto in Mantua.  If you’re in Santa Barbara, go to Rori’s Artisanal Creamery at 1024 Coast Village Road.

Posted in Abitudini, Cucina italiana, Differenze culturali, English, Foto, Italia, Mantova, Santa Barbara, Vacanze | 1 Comment