The Real Little Italy in the Bronx

Once upon a time there was Little Italy in Manhattan, home to thousands of Italians who had emigrated there from the late nineteenth century to the 1950s.  Most came from southern Italy:  the Sicilians settled on Elizabeth Street, the Neapolitans clustered around Mulberry Street, and those from Calabria, Apulia, and Basilicata lived on Mott Street.

Today little remains except the nostalgia.  Starting in the ‘70s, second and third generation Italian-Americans left in search of more space and upward mobility.  Chinatown encroached from the south and gentrification encroached from the west. Tricolori flags now are interspersed with signs for Chinese dumplings and Vietnamese soup.  The Italian American museum, which recently expanded, remains to document the contributions of Italians to American life.  And there are still some culinary institutions like Di Palo, whose five generations of family members built one of the most famous food stores in the city, which is still frequented by customers like Martin Scorsese.

It is said that the real Little Italy today is in the Bronx, in an area called Belmont, half a mile from the Bronx Zoo.  Some people call the area Arthur Avenue after the main street, which is bisected by East 187thStreet, and is lined with restaurants, pizzerias, meat and fish markets, bakeries and pastry stores.

Italians settled in this area in the 1950s, at a time when Joe DiMaggio, Phil Rizzuto, Yogi Berra, Rocky Marciano, and Jake LaMotta ate in the local restaurants.  It was home to Dion Dimucci, who named his do-wop group the Belmonts.

Years ago the restaurants in the neighborhood were so insular that menus varied little, the ingredients were cheap, and the wine lists boring.  But all of that has changed, and even the old-timers have upped their game.  You can eat extremely well now – that is, within an Italian-American context influenced by Neapolitan and Sicilian cuisine. And you can run into celebrities like Joe Torre, Marisa Tomei, and Mario Batali.

What hasn’t changed is the Italian atmosphere of the neighborhood.  It is like a Sicilian village where you go shopping and the butcher advises you of the best cut of meat, and the greengrocer has put aside a basil plant for you before he goes home to get some fresh pasta.  It is full of small Italian shops where you can find everything and you have a personal relationship with the owner, where you stop to talk with people on the street.  When you sit at the bar, you feel like you are in Italy.  All of this is in the neighborhood that was home to the actor Chazz Palminteri and the writer Don DeLillo, and where Joe Pesci began his acting career after being discovered by Robert De Niro in one on the area restaurants where he worked.

Posted in Campania, Cucina italiana, English, Foto, Immigrazione, Italia, Italoamericani, New York, Puglia, Sicilia, Storia | Leave a comment

Dove stava Michelangelo?

Nell’estate del 1530, Michelangelo scomparve per tre mesi.  Stava lavorando alle Cappelle Medicee della Basilica di San Lorenzo a Firenze.  Alcuni hanno pensato che fosse stato con un amico; altri hanno immaginato che si fosse nascosto in un campanile di una chiesa.  Per quasi 500 anni il luogo in cui stette Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni rimase un segreto.

Cosa stava succedendo a Firenze in quel momento?  Intorno al 1527 i fiorentini si sono stancati dei Medici, una delle famiglie più ricche e potenti d’Europa.  Sperando in un governo più democratico, i ribelli organizzarono una rivolta popolare per cacciare la famiglia regnante da Firenze. Michelangelo si unì ai ribelli che lavoravano per aiutare a fortificare le mura della città contro le forze dei Medici guidate da Papa Clemente VII, che era lui stesso un Medici.

Perché l’avrebbe fatto Michelangelo?  Doveva il suo sostentamento al Papa e alla famiglia Medici, che commissionò la sua arte, incluso il proprio progetto a cui stava lavorando.  Dopo 10 mesi di lotta, il Papa e la sua famiglia vinsero, e i ribelli vennero rapidamente puniti.  Anche Michelangelo sarebbe stato punito se non avesse trovato un nascondiglio.  Nel novembre del 1530, tuttavia, il Papa informò che Michelangelo poteva tornare a lavoro—impunito—per completare la Cappella. Solo allora emerse dal suo nascondiglio.

Saltiamo 445 anni al 1975.  Paolo Dal Poggetto, il direttore del Museo delle Cappelle Medicei in quel momento, stava cercando per un nuovo modo che permettesse ai turisti di uscire dal museo.  Lui e i suoi colleghi scopersero una botola nascosta sotto un armadio vicino alla Sagrestia Nuova, una camera progettata per ospitare le tombe ornate dei sovrani medicei.  Sotto la botola, gradini di pietra conducevano a una stanza, che all’inizio pensarono fosse utilizzata solo per immagazzinare il carbone.  Come si potrebbe sospettare in tutta Firenze e in tutta Italia, Dal Poggetto si chiedeva se ci fosse qualcosa di interessante sotto le pareti di gesso. Gli esperti hanno trascorso settimane rimuovendo meticolosamente l’intonaco con i bisturi.

Ciò che emerse furono dozzine di disegni a carboncino che si credeva fossero opere di Michelangelo quando era rintanato lì. Alcuni schizzi sono simili ai suoi capolavori più famosi, tra cui la statua di David, i dipinti nella Cappella Sistina e una statua che adornano una tomba medicea nella Sagrestia di sopra. Apparentemente riempiva la sua solitudine con riflessioni su vecchi lavori, oltre a disegni di che avrebbe voluto fare una volta sopravvissuto a quei drammatici mesi.

Oltre alle domande logistiche su come sopravvisse in questo spazio di 7 x 2 metri, ci sono alcuni dubbi sulla provenienza di questi disegni.  Come qualsiasi opera d’arte non firmata, è impossibile confermare con certezza l’origine dei disegni.  Alcuni critici d’arte ritengono che alcuni dei graffiti siano troppo amatoriali per essere di Michelangelo.  Altri sono convinti che in questa stanza segreta ci sia la principale scoperta artistica del ventesimo secolo.  Presumibilmente Michelangelo ricordò il suo trascorso lì: “Mi sono nascosto in una piccola cella, sepolto come i defunti Medici di sopra, sebbene mi stessi nascondendo da uno vivo.  Per dimenticare le mie paure, ho riempito le pareti di disegni”.

Dalla scoperta di questi disegni nel 1976, la sala è stata aperta principalmente agli studiosi.  Tuttavia, nel 2013, i computer touch screen hanno reso i tesori visibili a un pubblico più ampio.  Mentre l’accesso alla stanza è difficile e le scale che scendono dalla botola non possono essere allargate, la sala sarà aperta al pubblico nel 2020.

Posted in Architecture, Arte, Firenze, Foto, Italia, Italiano, Storia, Vaticano | Leave a comment

Where Was Michelangelo?

In the summer of 1530, Michelangelo went missing for three months.  He had been working on the Medici Chapels of the Basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence.  Some people speculated that he was staying with a friend; others thought he hid out in a church bell tower.  For almost 500 years the whereabouts of Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni remained a secret.

What was going on in Florence at the time?  By 1527 Florentines had grown weary of the Medici, one of the wealthiest and most powerful families in Europe.  Hoping for a more democratic government, rebels organized a popular revolt and drove the ruling family out of Florence.  Michelangelo joined the rebels working to help fortify the city walls against the Medici forces led by Pope Clement VII, who was himself a Medici.

Why would Michelangelo do this?  He owed his very livelihood to the Pope and the Medici family, who commissioned his art including the very project he was working on.  After 10 months of struggle, the Pope and his family won, and the rebels were swiftly punished.  Michelangelo would have been punished too had he not found a hiding place.  By November 1530, the Pope let it be known that Michelangelo could return to work—unpunished—to complete the Chapel. Only then did he emerge from his hiding place.

Fast forward 445 years to 1975.  Paolo Dal Poggetto, the director of the Medici Chapels museum at that time, was searching for a new way for tourists to exit the museum.  He and his colleagues discovered a trapdoor hidden beneath a wardrobe near the New Sacristy, a chamber designed to house the ornate tombs of Medici rulers.  Below the trapdoor, stone steps led to a room that appeared at first to simply store coal. As one might suspect throughout Florence and all of Italy, Dal Poggetto wondered if something interesting might be underneath the plaster walls.  Experts spent weeks meticulously removing the plaster with scalpels.

What emerged were dozens of charcoal drawings believed to be the work of Michelangelo when he was holed up there.  Some sketches are similar to his most famous works, including the statue of David, paintings in the Sistine Chapel, and a statue adorning a Medici tomb in the Sacristy above.  He apparently filled his solitude with reflections on old works, as well as sketches of those he wanted to do once he survived those dramatic months.

Apart from logistical questions of how he survived in this space, there are some doubts about the provenance of these drawings.  As with any unsigned artwork, it is impossible to confirm the origins of the drawings with absolute certainty.  Some art critics believe that some of the doodles are too amateurish to be Michelangelo’s.  Others are convinced that in this 7 by 2  meter secret room is the major artistic find of the 20thcentury.  Supposedly Michelangelo recalled his time there: “I hid in a tiny cell, entombed like the dead Medici above, though hiding from a live one.  To forget my fears, I filled the walls with drawings.”

Since the discovery of these drawings in 1976, the room has been open mostly for scholars.  However, in 2013, touch screen computers have made the treasures visible to a wider audience.  While access to the room is difficult and the stairs down through the trap door cannot be widened, the room will be open to the public in 2020.

Posted in Architecture, Arte, English, Firenze, Foto, Italia, Toscana, Vaticano | 1 Comment