Little Italy

This is the third article by our guest blogger, Carol del Ciello.  Please also read “The Elegance of Food” (August 12) and “Virtual Graffiti” (May 19).

Italian-Americans are the largest group of immigrants of european origin in New York City as well as New York State.  Like many other immigrants, when the Italians arrived, they tended to remain together in their own neighborhoods.  They spoke the same language, ate the same food, and were able to create a support structure in their newly adopted home.

More than 4 million Italians immigrated to the United States between 1880 and 1922.  For the most part, they came from Southern Italy.  Many remained in New York and lived in a well-known neighborhood referred to as  Little Italy, located in the East Village in Manhattan.

But in fact, during this period, the Italians established another Little Italy in East Harlem. east-harlemIt is considered the first Little Italy in New York City.  The area extended east of Madison Ave between 116th and 125th streets.  “Italian Harlem” reached it’s peak in 1930 with more than 100,000 first and second generation Italian-Americans.  Today, very little remains of this population in Harlem.

mulberrty-streetTherefore, the Little Italy best known is in the East Village.  At one time, it was a Neapolitan village recreated on these shores with its own language and traditions as well as its own financial and cultural institutions.  But at the same time, it was an Italian ghetto because it was a very poor neighborhood.  Today, Little Italy is a patina, a collection of about 50 restaurants and bars for the tourists in a neighborhood comprised of only a few blocks where Chinese immigrants live along side young adults that cannot afford the higher rents in Soho or other more expensive neighborhoods. There are few remaining Italians in Little Italy.

At the beginning of the 20th century, 90 percent of the population was Italian. Now the number is only 8.25 percent. In contrast, in neighboring Chinatown, the population of Chinese is about 80 percent.

But all this is not news. After the second world war, the Italians began to leave the neighborhood moving to Brooklyn, Staten Island, Queens and Long Island as their financial situation improved. Then, with the U.S. Immigration Act of 1965, national quotas for immigration were abolished and the boom in Chinese immigration began.

san-gennaroWith this expansion of Chinatown, Little Italy began to disappear. Now, Little Italy consists of only a  few blocks comprised of  Mulberry Street  extending from Canal Street to Broome Street. But there are attempts at preserving cannoliwhat is left of Little Italy.  The Feast of San Gennaro is held every September there along with cheese cutting and cannoli eating contests on Columbus Day.   Also the owners of the remaining buildings within the neighborhood try to replace empty stores with Italian businesses.

In 2001, The Italian American Musuem was opened in the heart of Little Italy at the museointersection of Mulberry and Grand Streets. The building  was the original site of the Banca Stabile, which  was established by Rosario Stabile in 1885 and served the Italian immigrant community.

The precarious state of Little Italy is summed up by the comments todayof Robert Ianniello, the co-owner of Umberto’s Clam House, where Joe Gallo, the New York gangster was shot dead. When asked what would happen if a Chinese restaurant wanted to open on Mulberry Street, he responded “ We wouldn’t have a problem with that; however, what I truly fear is a Starbucks”.

Posted in English, Foto, Italia, Italoamericani, New York, Storia | Leave a comment

Un’altra lotta con il cibo: Questa volta i rigatoni “bianchi Bolognese”

La cucina italiana è probabilmente la preferita in tutto il mondo; è adorata dall’Asia al Sud America.  Gli italiani stessi sono così attaccati ai loro piatti nazionali che rimangono delusi quando i loro piatti sono diversi all’estero.  Ma, sono anche più delusi — no, addirittura arrabbiati — quando gli altri — soprattutto gli americani — cambiano un piatto intenzionalmente.  Dopotutto, agli americani è sempre piaciuto giocherellare con le ricette della nonna della nonna della nonna.

Però, è accaduto di nuovo.  Recentemente, il New York Times ha pubblicato una ricetta per “I rigatoni ‘white bolognese’”.  La ricetta consiste in un ragù bianco preparato con cipolle, carote, sedano, panna e funghi essiccati.rigatoni

L’indignazione si è scatenata da parte degli italiani, soprattutto gli emiliani.  Da Bologna: “Continuiamo a ripeterlo: la bolognese non esiste in Italia.  Si prepara il ragù alla bolognese con la carne, il pomodoro, senza funghi.  E il tipo di pasta da usare sono le tagliatelle, mai gli spaghetti o i rigatoni.

Tra gli altri commenti: “Vorrei sapere chi distribuisce queste pseudo ricette italiane.”  E ancora: “È una offesa alla nostra cucina.”  Anche la Coldiretti si è fatta sentire.  (La Coldiretti è la principale organizzazione degli imprenditori agricoli a livello nazionale in Italia ed Europea.)  “All’estero vengono portate in tavola le più bizzarre versioni delle ricette tradizionali…come l’abitudine tedesca di impiegare l’olio di semi nella cotoletta alla Milanese, quella olandese di non usare il mascarpone nel tiramisù, e per finire gli inglesi e agli americani che vanno pazzi per gli spaghetti alla Bolognese che sono del tutto sconosciuti nella città emiliana.”

Mentre gli spaghetti alla Bolognese sono forse il caso più eclatante, tra le specialità più “tradite,” continua la Coldiretta, ci sono anche l’insalata caprese “servita con formaggio industriale al posto della mozzarella di bufala o del fiordilatte, … la pasta al pesto proposta con mandorle, noci o pistacchi al posto dei pinoli e con il formaggio comune che sostituisce l’immancabile a reggiano e il pecorino romano.  Per non parlare poi della pizza che viene offerta nelle versioni più inimmaginabili, da quella hawaiana con l’ananas a quella di pollo.”

Non voglio insultare i miei amici italiani.  Così includerò la ricetta per i rigatoni “white bolognese” solo nella versione inglese di questo post.

Posted in Abitudini, Cucina italiana, Differenze culturali, Foto, Italiano | Leave a comment

Another Food Fight: This time Rigatoni “White Bolognese”

Quite possibly Italian food is the favorite cuisine throughout the world; it is adored from Asia to South America.  Many Italians themselves are so attached to their national dishes that they become disappointed when their food is different outside of Italy.  But, they are even more disappointed—no, downright angry—when others—especially the Americans—intentionally change a dish.  After all, the Americans are messing with the recipes of their grandmother’s grandmother’s grandmother.

Well, it has happened again.  Recently, the New York Times published a recipe for Rigatoni “white Bolognese.”  The recipe calls for a white ragù prepared with onions, carrots, celery, cream, and dried mushrooms.rigatoni

It unleashed the indigation of the Italians, especially the Emiliani.  From Bologna:  “We continue to repeat it: Bolognese sauce does not exist in Italy.  One prepares ragù alla Bolognese with meat, tomato and without mushrooms.  And the pasta is tagliatelle, never spaghetti or rigatoni.”

Among the other comments: “I would like to know who spreads these pseudo Italian recipes.”  And another  “It is an offense to our cuisine.”  Even the Coldiretti ( the principle organization of agricultural business owners at the national level in Italy and in Europe) speaks out:  “In other countries, the most bizarre versions of traditional recipes are brought to the table…like the German custom of using vegetable oil for veal cutlets alla Milanese, or that of the Dutch who do not use mascarpone in their tiramisù, all the way to the English and the Americans who go nuts for Bolognese spaghetti, which is totally unknown in our emiliana city.”

While spaghetti alla Bolognese is perhaps the most egregious case, among the other betrayed specialties, continues the Coldiretta, are “caprese salad made with processed cheese instead of buffalo mozzarella or fiordilatte…pesto pasta made with almonds, walnuts or pistachio nuts in place of pine nuts and with a common cheese instead of the unmatchable reggiano parmesan and pecorino cheeses… not to mention pizza in the most unimaginable versions, like those with pineapple or chicken.”

Since I don’t want to insult my Italian friends, I am including the recipe for “white Bolognese” rigatoni only in the English version of this post.

Rigatoni with White Bolognese Sauce

INGREDIENTS

Extra virgin olive oil

½ sweet onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped

1 stalk celery, finely chopped

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound mild Italian pork sausage meat, removed from casings

1 pound ground beef (not lean)

1 ½ cups dry Italian white wine

1 cube beef bouillon dissolved in 2 cups simmering water

1 ½ ounces dried porcini mushrooms rehydrated in

        3 cups lukewarm water

⅓ cup heavy cream

1 pound rigatoni

¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

PREPARATION

  • . Add enough oil to a large, deep sauté pan to coat the base and place over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the onion, carrots and celery and sauté until glassy and just tender, about 5 minutes. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the sausage and beef to the pan, breaking it into walnut-size pieces, and brown well.
  • . Pour in the wine and keep at a rapid simmer until the pan is almost dry. Then pour in 1 1/2 cups beef bouillon and lower the heat to medium. Simmer gently, uncovered, until the bouillon is nearly gone, stirring now and then. Meanwhile, chop the rehydrated porcini into small pieces, reserving the liquid.
  • . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add mushroom liquid to the sauce to cover the meat halfway (about 1 cup) along with the porcini and continue simmering until the sauce is loose but not soupy, about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust salt and pepper; it should be highly seasoned. When the consistency is right, fold the cream in. Remove from the heat and cover.

 

When the pasta water is at a full boil, add the rigatoni and cook until still firm, but not hard, in the center. When the pasta is almost done, scoop out 1 cup of pasta water and reserve. Drain the pasta and then return it to the pot. Pour the pasta sauce on top and fold in with a wooden spoon. The pasta should not be dry. Add a little pasta water or mushroom liquid to loosen it. (It will continue to soak up sauce on the way to the table.) Serve in one large bowl or in individual bowls, passing the cheese at the table.

 

 

 

 

Posted in Abitudini, Cucina italiana, Differenze culturali, English, Foto, Italia | Leave a comment