Pasta with Clams

From Venice to Materia and throughout Italy, rain, wind and sea storms have triggered incalculable damage recently.  Besides human lives, art masterpieces, and other treasures, shellfish have been damaged.  Thousands of beached lupins have washed up along the coasts around Chioggia.  At risk is the traditional spaghetti with clams enjoyed by countless Italians and Italian-Americans on Christmas Eve.  It is that time of year when clams are harvested in both Italy and the United States.

It has been common lore that one should eat shellfish only in months that contain the letter “R.”  This means that you would avoid oysters, mussels, and clams in May, June, July, and August. The R-rule applied generally to North America, but this little pearl of wisdom may not strictly apply in countries whose months are spelled differently from ours (for example, gennaio for January in Italian lacks the requisite letter). Historians trace it to an ancient Latin saying; in 1599 it appeared for the first time in an English cookbook.

There are several logical theories behind the rule.  First, in the days before refrigeration, shellfish were likely to spoil in the heat.  Second, the summer months are the spawning season.  Since most of the energy in the fish at that time is dedicated to reproduction, the “meat” can become thin and milky.  Third, and most compelling, Red Tide most often occurs during the summer months; this refers to the high concentrations of an algae that is highly toxic to humans.

Today, however, the R-rule applies primarily to shellfish you might harvest on your own.  Health and sustainability regulations require inspections to safeguard fish from unsafe toxin levels.  In general, one can be confident of shellfish purchased year-round at reputable markets and restaurants.

Based on 80-100 grams (3 to 3.5 oz.) of pasta per person, one should buy 250 grams (9 oz.) of clams per person or 1 kilo (2.2 lbs) for 4 people.  But what kinds of clams are best?  In Italy, the ideal clams are vongole veraci, but they can be difficult to find and are expensive (20-25 euro a kilo).  Some chefs prefer lupins (8-10 euros a kilo) for their more pronounced flavor of the sea.  Several varieties are available in the United States.  Littlenecks and cherrystones (same species, but the latter are larger) come from the Atlantic Ocean on the east coast.  Manila clams come from the west coast.  In Pismo Beach in California, about 85 miles north of Santa Barbara, the Pismo clam was so highly prized that it became almost extinct 20 years ago from over harvesting.  Today the clams are returning but they are still too small, and laws prohibit anyone from harvesting them.  Yet, one of the traditions that is retained at restaurants in Pismo Beach is to serve clam chowder (using other types of clams) in sourdough bread bowls.

There are at least two methods to clean clams and ensure that they don’t retain sand.  Either you can put the clams in salted water (about 1 tablespoon of salt per quart of water) or in a similar mixture using cornmeal.  Place in a single layer in a large pan or in the sink and soak for about 2 hours.  Then rinse under cold water and scrub the shells with a toothbrush to remove any grime.

To open the clams and begin to make the sauce, put about a half cup of olive oil in a large pot and add 6 cloves of chopped garlic, a little red pepper and some parsley.  After the garlic is lightly browned, add a half cup of white wine and simmer gently.  Then add the clams and cover the pot.  Check frequently and remove the opened clams.

Meanwhile your pot of pasta water is boiling.  Which pasta to use?  According to Peppe Guida, a foremost pasta chef from the Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa in Vico Equense (a seaside town in Naples), “the pasta with clams for me is vermicelli because they are slightly thicker than spaghetti but less so than spaghettoni.  You need a pasta that releases a little bit of starch during the cooking.”  What about linguine, which is popular in American restaurants?  “Many people love linguine, but for this recipe I prefer the round type.  The spaghetti has a diameter that cooks more uniformly.  The consistency and the creaminess (due to the release of starch) will be different.”

That said from a connoisseur.

Posted in Abitudini, Cucina italiana, English, Foto, Italia, Italoamericani, Napoli, Storia | 2 Comments

Il ponte che attraversa i secoli

Il ponte Morandi a Genova è crollato nel 2018, circa 50 anni dopo la sua realizzazione. Ponti, strade e altre infrastrutture in tutta Italia e come negli Stati Uniti hanno un disperato bisogno di essere riparati. A seguire vedremo come un ponte che fu concepito più di 5 secoli fa, non ha mai avuto bisogno di alcuna manutenzione … perché non è mai stato costruito.

Il sultano Bayezid II, sovrano dell’Impero ottomano dal 1481 al 1512, voleva costruire un ponte fisso per unire le due sponde del Corno d’oro, collegando così la città di Istanbul alla cittadina di Galata. Come principale insenatura del Bosforo a Istanbul, il Corno d’oro era una delle principali vie navigabili urbane. “Corno” si riferisce alla sagoma dell’estuario all’ingresso; “dorato” si riferisce invece alle ricchezze storiche portate in città attraverso il vivace porto o, più romanticamente, al colore dell’acqua al tramonto.

Per un ponte di ingegneria d’avanguardia, il sultano voleva i migliori progettisti dell’epoca. E durante il Rinascimento, questi non potevano che trovarsi in Italia, e fra questi non poteva che essere Leonardo da Vinci. I turchi furono sempre in buoni rapporti con i genovesi perché vi intrattenevano affari e Istanbul, con il suo stretto, era il collegamento tra l’Europa e l’Asia, un passaggio chiave nelle rotte commerciali in quello che era allora il centro del mondo: il Mediterraneo. Leonardo era forse a Genova in quel periodo, o fu probabilmente contattato da commercianti che operavano tra la repubblica marittima e l’oriente.

Leonardo rispose alla richiesta del sultano. Ma fu solo nel 1952 che la straordinaria lettera di Leonardo fu scoperta negli archivi del Palazzo di Topkapi, residenza del sovrano a Istanbul. Leonardo descrive il ponte, includendovi degli schizzi per rappresentarlo. Era diverso da tutto ciò che era stato costruito fino a quel momento: sarebbe stato il ponte più lungo del mondo – 280 metri; invece di molte baie, sarebbe stato costituito da una sola campata. Leonardo assicurò al sultano che il ponte sarebbe stato abbastanza alto da permettere alle navi a vela di passarvi sotto. Tuttavia, per un motivo sconosciuto, il disegno di Leonardo non fu approvato. Il sultano si rivolse poi a Michelangelo, ma senza accettare le sue proposte.

I disegni di Leonardo sono attualmente esposti al Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia di Milano. Recentemente, i ricercatori del Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) hanno voluto esaminare se il progetto di Leonardo sarebbe potuto essere costruito. Gli ingegneri del MIT hanno studiato i suoi disegni, i materiali che avrebbe avuto a disposizione e le condizioni per costruire in quel determinato periodo storico. Per testare la fattibilità del ponte, i ricercatori hanno costruito un modello in scala, lungo ottanta centimetri, usando blocchi 3D, utilizzati poi per assemblarlo. E hanno testato la stabilità del ponte simulando delle scosse sismiche.

Queste le conclusioni del team: “Leonardo sapeva cosa stava facendo.” Hanno aggiunto, “era incredibilmente ambizioso … il ponte era circa 10 volte più lungo del ponte tipico ponte dell’epoca.” Era anche piuttosto sofisticato geometricamente, con più curvature e tridimensionalità rispetto ai tipici ponti ad arco. Per stabilizzare il ponte contro le oscillazioni laterali e i terremoti, da Vinci aveva progettato monconi di supporto alle estremità da far uscire verso l’esterno. Sebbene da Vinci non avesse specificato i materiali da utilizzare, il legno o i mattoni non sarebbero stati appropriati. Quindi la soluzione per un ponte di tale lunghezza sarebbe stata la pietra, assemblata senza l’utilizzo della malta.

L’eredità del progetto da Vinci? Nel 2001, una versione di ponte di Leonardo (a 91 metri) è stata realizzata ad Aas, a sud di Oslo, in Norvegia. È un ponte pedonale sopra un’autostrada ed è stato realizzato in pino, teak e acciaio inossidabile. Secondo gli ingegneri del MIT, “Ciò che possiamo imparare dal disegno di Leonardo da Vinci è che la forma di una struttura è molto importante per la sua stabilità. Non solo il progetto di Leonardo è strutturalmente stabile, ma la struttura è l’architettura. È importante comprendere questo progetto perché è un esempio di come l’ingegneria e l’arte non siano indipendenti l’una dall’altra”. Hanno aggiunto: “Ora abbiamo dimostrato che le sue idee sulla progettazione dei ponti erano in anticipo sui tempi. È improbabile che il ponte venga costruito oggi per ragioni di costo e praticità, ma potrebbe ispirare i sogni dei futuri progettisti”.

Altri post su Leonardo da Vinci:

Leonardo da Vinci: 10 curiosità che forse non sapete (2 luglio 2015)

Il furto della Gioconda (12 novembre 2015)

Le Serie di Leonardo (14 gennaio 2016)

I due Leonardo (14 settembre 2017)

I dipinti di Leonardo: Cosa c’è in un prezzo?  (8 marzo 2018)

 

 

Posted in Architecture, Arte, Firenze, Foto, Genova, Italia, Italiano, Liguria, Storia, Toscana | Leave a comment

The Bridge that Spans Centuries

The Morandi Bridge in Genova collapsed in 2018, about 50 years after it was built.  Bridges, roads, and other infrastructure throughout Italy and the United States are in dire need of repair.  One bridge that was conceived more than 5 centuries ago does not need maintenance … because it was never built.

Sultan Bayezid II, ruler of the Ottoman Empire from 1481 to 1512, wanted to build a bridge to join the two banks of the Golden Horn, the estuary that divided Istanbul from the town of Galata. As the primary inlet of the Bosphorus in Istanbul, the Golden Horn was a major urban waterway.  “Horn” refers to the inlet’s silhouette; “golden” refers either to the historic riches brought into the city through the bustling harbor or, more romantically, to the color of the water at sunset.

For a bridge of avant-garde engineering, the sultan wanted the best designers of the time.  During the Renaissance, it was (what is now) Italy, and it was Leonardo da Vinci.   The Turks had always maintained good relations with the Genoese because they dealt with them in business.  Istanbul and its strait were the link between Europe and Asia, a key passage in the trade routes in what was then the center of the world: the Mediterranean.  Leonardo was perhaps in Genoa at the time, or more likely was contacted by traders who operated between the maritime republic and the east.

Leonardo answered the Sultan’s request.  But it wasn’t until 1952 that Leonardo’s remarkable letter was discovered in the State Archives at the Topkapi Museum in Istanbul.  In it he describes the bridge and includes sketches to represent it.  It was unlike anything that had been built at the time: It would have been the world’s longest bridge —280 meters (almost 920 feet); instead of multiple bays, it was a single span.  Leonardo assured the sultan in his letter that the bridge would be high enough that ships under full sail could pass under it.  However, for an unknown reason, Leonardo’s design was not approved.  The sultan also turned to Michelangelo without accepting his ideas either.

Leonardo’s drawings are currently displayed at the Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia in Milan.  Recently, researchers at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) wanted to examine whether Leonardo’s design would have been viable at the time.  MIT engineers studied his drawings, the materials he would have had available, and construction conditions in that era.  To test the viability of the bridge, they built a scale model, 80 centimeters long, using 3D blocks to assemble it.  And they tested the bridge’s stability by simulating earthquake conditions.

The team’s conclusion: “Leonardo knew what he was doing.”  They added, “it was incredibly ambitious…it was about 10 times longer than typical bridges of that time.” It was also quite sophisticated geometrically, with more curvature and three-dimensionality than typical arch bridges.  To stabilize the bridge against lateral sway and earthquakes, da Vinci designed the supportive abutments at either end to spread outward.  Although da Vinci did not specify the materials to be used, wood or brick would not have been practical.  Stone would have been the material to use for a bridge of such length, and the stones would have been fitted together without mortar.

The legacy of da Vinci’s project?  In 2001, a 100-yard version on Leonardo’s bridge was unveiled at Aas, south of Oslo, in Norway.  It is a pedestrian bridge over a motorway and was made of pine, teak and stainless steel.  According to the MIT engineers, “What we can learn from Leonardo da Vinci’s design is that the form of a structure is very important for its stability.  Not only is Leonardo’s design structurally stable, but the structure is the architecture.  It is important to understand this design because it is an example of how engineering and art are not independent from each other.”  They added, “We have now proven that his ideas on bridge design were well ahead of his time.  It is unlikely that it will ever be built for reasons of cost and practicality, but it could inspire future designers to dream big.”

Other posts on Leonardo da Vinci:

  • Leonardo da Vinci: 10 things you may not know, July 2, 2015
  • The theft of the Mona Lisa, November 12, 2015
  • The Leonardo Series, September 14, 2016
  • The 2 Leonardos, September 14, 2017
  • Leonardo’s paintings: What’s in a price? March 8, 2018

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Architecture, Arte, English, Foto, Genova, Italia, Liguria, Storia, Toscana | 1 Comment