Italy and Longevity (in age, that is)

Italy can boast of having some of the oldest people on the planet.  In fact, on November emma-morana29, 2016, Emma Morano turned 117.  She is believed to be the oldest person in the world.  Born in 1899 in the province of Vercelli in the Piedmont region, Emma’s life has spanned three centuries and earned heartiest wishes from the President of the Republic, Sergio Mattarella.

Emma currently lives in Pallanza on Lake Maggiore.  During her lifetime, she has seen 3 kings of Italy, 11 popes, and 12 presidents of the republic.  In an interview, she explained that her secret is 3 eggs a day; she is aware that the diet that she has followed for decades, based on lady fingers, bananas, and pasta in beef broth, and until recently, gianduiotti (chocolate and hazelnut), would not be approved by many nutritionists.

accarioliFarther south in Italy are two regions and several towns where researchers are studying the diet and other factors in the exceptional longevity of residents.  Acciaroli is a seaside town in Cilento (province of Salerno in the Campania region), where of the 700 residents, those over 80 exceeds 10 percent of the population.  One in 60 is 90 or older compared to one in every 163 Americans (according to the 2010 census).

In fact, longevity reigns in the entire area of Cilento, but Acciaroli is a unique case.  In thisrosmarino area, a particularly pungent variety of rosemary is grown and is a daily part of the diet.  “They use rosemary on everything they cook,” says one of the researchers from the University of California, San Diego School of Medicine.  Some studies have shown that rosemary can aid brain function, and the researchers think that the variety grown in Acciaroli might aid microcirculation — the small capillaries that deliver nutrients to tissues and remove waste.

The quality of life for those over 90 in Acciaroli is high: virtually no cataracts, few bone fractures, excellent heart health, and a low incidence of Alzheimer’s disease.  What about le-acciugheenvironmental factors and other food choices that could contribute to the health status?  Residents raise and consume their own rabbits, and dine on anchovies from the local fishermen.  Abundant sunshine and clean air enable people to be outdoors, to swim at the beaches, and to climb the hills along the coast.  Researchers believe these could be contributory factors.

Farther south in Italy, a pleasant climate is also believed to be one of the factors that grantla-sardegna longevity to the people of Sardinia, an island in the Mediterranean Sea.  With a population of 1.6 million, Sardinia has the world’s highest percentage of people who have passed the century mark.  At least 371 of Sardinia’s population have reached the 100 —a ratio 20 times greater than that found in the United States.

Genetics may play a key role.  Longevity is most common in the central-eastern gli-uomini-della-sardegnamountainous region where the ruggedness of the geography has repelled invaders for centuries.  Researchers have identified a gene in the Y chromosome that can significantly reduce heart attack and stroke in men.  This gene, passed down from fathers to sons, could explain the 1-1 ratio of male to female centenarians in the area, while the ratio is generally 1-4 around the world.

The Sardinian diet may also be crucial.  It is rich in nutrients from locally grown vegetables, simply prepared with olive oil, lemon, garlic, and other spices.  The diet is also le-verdurerich in protein derived from milk and cheese, while low in sugar and meat.  Many eat meat –a small piece of lamb, lean pork, oily fish or shellfish– only once or twice a week.  A glass of wine is part of the Sardinian culture.

And speaking of culture, in Sardinia, elders are held in high regard and included in family life.  They continue to work—in cafes, gardens, and kitchens.  Their lives have great meaning because they do not live in retirement homes, are integrated into daily life, and enjoy the affection of children, grandchildren, and others.

But, like I reported in “The Roseto Effect” (September 10, 2015), as modernization takes hold, many health advantages could disappear.  The increasing presence of motor vehicles on Sardinia has greatly reduced the healthy exercise of walking.  Obesity, unknown on the island prior to 1940, now affects about 10 percent of the population.  And, as a local resident observed, “Children want potato chips and pizza.  That’s what they see on TV.  Bread and pecorino are considered old-fashioned.”

Posted in Abitudini, Campania, English, Foto, Italia, La Gente, Sardegna | 1 Comment

In Paradiso: La Musica e Il Vino

grapesTra le colline ondeggianti della Toscana, all’interno della provincia di brunelloSiena, vi si trova il comune di Montalcino.  In passato, la zona era relativamente povera, ma il declino di Montalcino è stato invertito dalla popolarità del famoso vino, il Brunello di Montalcino, che è ottenuto da uva sangiovese coltivata nell’area.  Il numero di produttori di vino in questo settore è cresciuto da 11 negli anni ’60 a più di 200 oggi.

Ma uno dei vigneti lì, Il Paradiso di Frassini, è decisamente diverso.  L’uva viene serenata il-paradisotutto il giorno, tutti i giorni, dalla musica classica.  Quest’idea è stato il frutto dell’ingegno di Giancarlo Cignozzi, il proprietario.  Nel 1999, mentre stava praticando legge a Milano, ha scoperto una tenuta fatiscente in vendita appena a sud di Montalcino.  Era un luogo umile—con una casa, fabbricati agricoli e viti di uva tutti in rovina.  Ma era nelle vicinanze di alcune delle migliori cantine del Brunello, e Cignozzi si innamorò del posto.

mozart-brunelloCignozzi coltiva i vigneti organicamente.  Lui è anche un musicista in cignozziforma, ed ha avuto l’ispirazione di combinare entrambe le passioni – musica classica e vigneti biologici.  Si chiese, “se la musica può migliorare la vita degli esseri umani e degli animali, perché non quella delle piante?  Così, ha iniziato a suonare Mozart nella sua vigna.  E ha ottenuto risultati.  Secondo il figlio, Ulisse, dividono la vigna in 25 aree e monitorano la qualità dell’uva al momento del raccolto.  Le piante che sono più vicine alla musica sono più robuste.  L’uva che cresce più vicina ai diffusori ha un elevato contenuto di zucchero.

Non passò molto tempo prima che l’idea catturasse l’attenzione degli scienziati.  Stefano Mancuso, un neurobiologo di piante presso l’Università di Firenze, che ha studiato la vigna dal 2003, dice: “È molto difficile dire che alle piante piace la musica classica…ma possono percepire suoni e frequenze.”  Specula che le viti di Cignozzi crescano verso i diffusori perché le frequenze musicali assomigliano a quelle dell’acqua corrente.  Ritiene anche che i suoni riducano gli attacchi di insetti in modo drammatico.  La musica può confondere gli insetti nocivi, che li rende incapaci di riprodursi.  La musica può anche spaventare gli uccelli e le altre creature che si nutrono di uva.

boseMentre Cignozzi è orgoglioso della ricerca, è anche un inguaribile romantico.   Preferisce la visione di Mozart alla teoria delle vibrazioni.  Ha serenata la sua uva per più di un decennio ed è rimasto dalla parte della sua decisione di suonare Mozart.  Mancuso dice che si possono suonare anche altri generi di musica—anche Heavy Metal—se si hanno abbastanza bassi.  Le viti sono influenzati dalle basse frequenze.

E com’è il sapore del Brunello?  Secondo il mio amico di Santa Barbara e compagno di montalcino-mappastudi della lingua italiana ed esperto di vino, Joel Garbarino, “il Brunello è un grande vino con note di ciliegia, spezie, e minerali, e anche funghi…e, come i miei amici italiani dicono, ‘un tocco di polvere di piombo.’”  Joel mi ha mandato questa mappa, che mostra le sette zone di produttori di vino a Montalcino.  Il Paradiso di Frassini si trova nella zona di Montalcino Nord.

Il Brunello è stato il primo vino a ricevere lo status di Denominazione di Origine magic-fluteControllata e Garantita (DOCG).   Il Brunello di Montalcino deve essere invecchiato cinque anni prima del rilascio.  Per quanto riguarda i vini Brunello del Paradiso di Frassini?  Secondo il website, c’è un vino speciale che è chiamato “Il flauto magico”: “Questo è un Brunello unico e inimitabile.  A partire dal 2008, grazie alla Bose (la società di elettronica di consumo), siamo stati in grado di riprodurre musica per uno dei nostri vigneti di Brunello (che comprende un ettaro o 1,47 acri), con 50 diffusori, che abbiamo messo lungo ogni riga della vite.  Poi abbiamo fatto il vino in modo che l’uva di Brunello di questa “vigna Mozart” è stata vinificata separatamente nella nostra cantina.  Abbiamo deciso di lasciare il vino prodotto da quest’uva nella botte per 8 mesi in più rispetto al normale.  Questo è il modo che il “prima cru” del Paradiso di Frassini è nata.  Perché è stata immersa in armonia musicale, l’abbiamo chiamato “Il Flauto Magico.”

 

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In Paradise: Music and Wine

grapesIn the rolling hills of Tuscany within the province of Siena is the town of Montalcino.  Formerly on hard economic times, Montalcino’s brunellodecline was reversed by the popularity of the town’s famous wine, Brunello di Montalcino, made from the sangiovese grapes grown in the area.  The number of wine producers in this area grew from 11 in the 1960s to more than 200 today.

il-paradisoBut one of the vineyards, Il Paradiso di Frassini, is decidedly different.  The grapes are serenaded all day, every day, by classical music.  The experiment is the brainchild of Giancarlo Cignozzi, the owner.  In 1999, while he was practicing law in Milan, he discovered a crumbling estate for sale just south of the town of Montalcino.  It was a humble place—with a house, farm buildings and vines all in disrepair.  But it was near some of the top Brunello wineries, and Cignozzi fell in love with it.

mozart-brunelloCignozzi farms the vineyards organically.  But he is also a trained musician, and he was inspired to combine both passions—playing music and creating an organic vineyard.  He asked himself, “if cignozzimusic can improve the lives of humans and animals, why not plants?”  So he started playing Mozart in his vineyard.  And he got results.  According to his son, Ulisse, they divide the vineyard into 25 areas and monitor the quality of the grapes at harvest time.  The plants near the music are more robust.  The grapes that grow closer to the speakers have a higher sugar content.

It wasn’t long before the idea caught the attention of scientists.  Stefano Mancuso, a plant neurobiologist from the University of Florence, who has been studying the vineyard since 2003, says, “It’s very difficult to say that plants like classical music…but they can perceive sounds and specific frequencies.”  He speculates that Cignozzi’s vines may grow toward the speakers because the music frequencies resemble those of running water.  He also believes that the sound reduces insect attacks dramatically.  Music may confuse harmful bugs, making them unable to breed.   The music may also scare away birds and other creatures that feed on grapes.

boseWhile Cignozzi is proud of the research, he is also an incurable romantic.  He prefers the Mozart vision over the theory of vibrations.  He’s been serenading his grapes for over a decade and stands by his decision to play Mozart.  Mancuso says that they can play many other types of music—even heavy metal if it has enough bass.  The vines are affected by low frequencies.

And how does the wine taste?  According to my Santa Barbara friend, fellow Italian montalcino-mappalanguage student, and wine expert, Joel Garbarino, “Brunello is a great wine with hints of cherry, spices and mineral, and even mushrooms…and as my Italian friends say, “a touch of lead dust’”.  Joel sent me this map, which shows the seven zones of wine producers around Montalcino.  Paradiso di Frassini is in the Montalcino Nord zone.

Brunello was the first wine to be awarded the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e magic-fluteGarantita (DOCG) status.  Brunello di Montalcino must be aged five years prior to release.  But what about the Brunello wines from Paradiso di Frassini?  According to the web site, there is a special wine called “The Magic Flute”: “This is a unique and inimitable Brunello.  From 2008, thanks to Bose (the consumer electronics company), we were able to play music to one of our Brunello vineyards (comprising 1 hectare or 1.47 acres), using 50 loud-speakers, which we placed along each vine row.  We then made sure that the Brunello grapes from this “Mozart vineyard” were fermented separately in our winery.  We decided to leave the wine from these fortunate Brunello grapes in the barrel for 8 months longer than normal.  This is how Paradiso di Frassini’s first “cru” was born.  So immersed in musical harmony, we called it ‘The Magic Flute.’”

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