Why are so many Italian Masterpieces found outside of Italy today?

In museums and private collections around the world, there are thousands and thousands of Italian paintings, sculptures, tapestries and other works of art that have left the shores of Italy over the centuries through means both legal and not so legal.  There are many, many reasons for this emigration, and most are not happy ones for Italy.  Has Italy been a target more than other countries?  I don’t know.

But here are some of the themes—stories of aristocrats in ruin, stories of art dealers with a nose for art and profit, stories of passionate and grandiose foreign collectors.  And above all there are the vicissitudes of history—trends, war, reparations—and of a country that, in too many instances, let its valuable heritage slip through its fingers.

Let’s start with Napoleon.  Following his European military campaign, there was a 4-horses-a-veneziatriumphal celebration in Paris in 1797, a parade of all the trophies that Napoleon had looted.  The parade exhibited two huge statues of the Nile and Tiber from the Vatican, the four bronze horses stolen from Venice, plus the Transfiguration by Raphael, the laocoonteMadonna della Vittoria by Mantegna, the Crucifixion of St. Peter by Guido Reni, the Wedding at Cana by Veronese, and so on; from the Vatican also came the Laocoön, the Apollo Belvedere, and the Venus de’ Medici.  Napoleon had taken advantage of peace treaties by inserting damage clauses that included the divestiture of art.

This history is documented in a show that opened in December 2016 in Rome at the museumScuderie Papali del Quirinale called “The Universal Museum.  From the Dream of Napoleon to Canova.”  Canova was a sculptor who became the Vatican’s ambassador to Paris to negotiate the return of the art.  While he was successful in bringing many works home 200 years ago, there are many of Napoleon’s stolen treasures in the Louvre today.  (The Mona Lisa was not taken by Napoleon although many are still erroneously convinced of this today.)

During the Napoleonic campaigns, Edward Solly, an English lumber merchant who lived madonna-sollyin Berlin, amassed an unbelievable collection of Italian 14th and 15th century paintings that were largely unappreciated at the time.  They were taken from churches and convents of northern and central Italy between 1797 and 1805.  Solly managed to put together a unique collection and then sold some pieces wisely.  And he did it all without setting foot in Italy because he had the complicity of Italian dealers.  Hence, the so-called Madonna Solly by Raphael is today preserved in the Gemäldegalerie in Berlin.

There were also many great Italian art collectors.  One of the most famous was Giovanni Pietro Campana, whose private collection included more than 300 paintings of the petit-palais“Primitivi,” that is, those artists that preceded the full flowering of the Renaissance.  His enormous treasure of paintings, sculptures, and other precious objects were confiscated by the Pontifical State following the owner’s disgrace and exile.  His collection was sold off—to the Czar of Russia, France, and others.  You see parts of his collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Metropolitan Museum of New York, and as of 40 years ago, a new Petit Palais Museum in Avignon, which houses many of the works of the Primitivi.     And so it goes with some of the richest collections in the world—such as la Colonna, la Aldobrandini, and la Chigi—which today are dispersed around the planet.

Italy was also full of antique and art dealers who “advised” rich foreign investors.  A museo-stefano-bardininotable case was that of Stefano Bardini (1836-1922), the most authoritative Italian antique dealer of the time.  He bought and sold something like 30,000 paintings of great value and 200,000 items of furniture and decorative art.  Thanks to the Alinari Foundation, photos show the precise moments in which a Donatello or a Botticelli was taken from this villa or that castle or that church, and was then crated and sold to museums like the Metropolitan in New York.  After years of intense commercial activity, Bardini donated part of his private collection to the city of Florence.

The failure to understand the value of the art and of its heritage played a central role in many of these dealings, and was no less a factor in times of political fragility.  It was not a botticelli-national-gallerycoincidence that just after the Unification of Italy (1861), thanks to the confusion and the disappearance of “the world of yesterday,” constraints loosened that prevented the dispersion and sale of precious works.  It was around this time that Great Britain managed to acquire the collection of Lombardi-Baldi of Florence, of which many items are in the National Gallery in London today.  The new laws during Risorgimento that treated sacred buildings and church assets as state property was the final straw:  half of Europe was decorated with Italian works of art.

No less oppressive was the responsibility of Fascism.  Thanks to the complicity of almost all of the Italian Fascist leaders, the Germans managed to put their hands on Italian discus-throwertreasures, helped also by unscrupulous art and antique dealers.  And by Mussolini himself:  a prime case is that of the Discus Thrower Lancellotti, which today is in the Palazzo Massimo in Rome.  Discovered in 1871, the sculpture from the 2nd century a.c. was a Roman copy of the celebrated Greek statue by Myron.  It was given to Hitler with compliments of Il Duce, despite the protests of many intellectuals.  And not to mention the perpetual looting by Hermann Goering:  In 1943 he sent crates with works stolen from Montecassino and Capodimonte (Naples) to the salt mines of Altaussee in Austria, as if they had always been his own property.

But before World War II there was the striking case of the Madonna of Sivignano, a 12th maddona-di-sivignanocentury painting on wood in the church of San Silvestro in the province of Aquila.  The parish priest had his eye on this painting.  He decided to sell it and to put a false copy in its place, but the war interrupted his plan.  The people of Sivignano, who realized “the traffic” of the priest, decided to save the painting, changing hiding places every week in private houses.  The painting was saved; it is not so important for its cultural value, but because of the actions of a handful of decent people.  Today it is in the Museum of Aquila.

Today, of course, Italy is vigilant in protecting its heritage.  In fact, as I reported in a previous post, there is a branch of the Carabinieri charged with protecting Italy’s patrimony and recovering stolen art.  It is well respected around the world.  But even as far back as the 1800s, the Brera Art Gallery in Milan was founded to host the most important works of art taken by the Napoleonic armies.  So unlike other important museums in Italy, such as the Uffizi, the Brera did not start out life as the private collection of a prince or nobleman but as the product of a deliberate policy decision.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Arte, English, Firenze, Foto, Italia, Milano, New York, Politica, Storia, Vaticano | Leave a comment

Guidando in Toscana

In generale, gli americani pensano che gli italiani siano autisti pazzi.  Forse è uno stereotipo o un luogo comune sugli italiani.  Ma mi ricordo che quando ero a Napoli, mi sembrava che quelli al volante raramente rispettassero i semafori, considerassero gli altri segnali stradali solo come un suggerimento, guidassero attaccati al paraurti della macchina di fronte, e tagliassero la strada ai pedoni, soprattutto a quelli sulle strisce pedonali.  E, certamente, guidavano come un pipistrello fuori dall’inferno.  In quel momento, ho deciso di non comprare una vespa.

Allora, quando abbiamo deciso di andare in Toscana due anni fa, ho pensato che sarebbe stato facile noleggiare una macchina e guidare attraverso la bellissima campagna della regione.  Dopotutto, non avremmo guidare in una grande città e  sarebbe stata un’esperienza tranquilla e divertente.  Dio mio, mi sbagliavo!

Ho guidato tutto il tempo.  Nonostante il GPS e il fratello di mio marito che faceva da navigatore seduto accanto a me, ci siamo persi molte volte.  C’erano tante rotonde e a volte non sapevo che uscita prendere.  Quindi spesso guidavo lentamente, e gli altri guidatori si arrabbiavano, suonavano i loro clacson e urlavano cose come “Che cosa fai?” insieme ai gesti con le mani.

Anche guidare per le città medioevali è stato difficile.  C’erano molte strade strette, molte strade a senso unico, e molte strade che erano chiuse al traffico veicolare in certi momenti.  Inevitabilmente ho preso la decisione sbagliata.  Ma la cosa peggiore è stato cercare di restituire l’auto in affitto a Firenze.  È difficile guidare in una città che non si conosce e, allo stesso tempo, cercare un indirizzo e seguire le indicazioni stradali in una lingua nuova.  Quattro mesi dopo, ho ricevuto 3 “Verbali di accertamento di violazione al codice della strada.” Tutte le violazioni sono avvenute entro un’ora!

Posted in Abitudini, Campania, Differenze culturali, Firenze, Italia, Italiano, Toscana | Leave a comment

Driving in Tuscany

In general, Americans think that Italians are crazy drivers.  Perhaps it’s a stereotype about Italy.  But I remember that when I was in Naples, it seemed that those at the wheel rarely respected the street lights, considered other street signs only as a suggestion, drove attached to the bumper in front, and cut off the street to pedestrians, especially those in the pedestrian walkways.  And, certainly, they drove like a bat out of hell.  At that moment, I decided not to buy a vespa.

So, when we decided to go to Tuscany 2 years ago, I thought that it would be easy to rent a car and drive through the beautiful countryside.  After all, we would not be in a large city.  It would be tranquil and fun.  Was I ever wrong!

I drove the entire time.  Despite the GPS and the brother of my husband who was the navigator seated next to me, we got lost several times.  There were so many roundabouts and at times it wasn’t clear which exit to take.  So, I drove slowly…causing other drivers to become angry as they honked their horns and yelled things like “What are you doing?” together with various hand gestures.

Even driving in medieval cities was difficult.  There were so many narrow streets, many that were one way, and others that were closed to vehicular traffic at certain times.  Inevitably, I made the wrong decisions.  But the worst was trying to return the rental car in Florence.  Suffice it to say that it is difficult to drive in city streets that you do not know, and at the same time, to search for an address and try to follow the street directions …in a fairly new language.  Four months later, I received 3 citations for street violations (like driving in a lane reserved for public transportation) taken by a telecamera.  All of the violations occurred within an hour.  Very costly!

Posted in Abitudini, Campania, Differenze culturali, English, Firenze, Italia, Toscana | Leave a comment