The Mystery of Stradivari (or Stradavarius)

StradAntonio Stradavari (in latin, Antonius Stradivarius) was an Italian luthier — a maker of extraordinary stringed instruments such as violins, violas, cellos, guitars, and harps.  Even if you’re not a musical expert, the name “Stradavarius” connotes excellence in instrument making even though other luthiers at the time, like Amati and Guarneri, also produced instruments of excellent sound.

Stradavari’s life and work are surrounded by an aura of mystery, downloadbeginning with his birth.  Records are inconsistent, but it is believed that he was born around 1644 presumably in Cremona.  The origin of the name could be either the plural of Stradivare meaning “toll-man” in Lombardy or “de Strataverta,” from Strada averta, which means “open road” in Cremonese dialect.

Between the ages of 12 and 14, Stradavari probably became an apprentice to Nicolò Amati.  Another theory holds that he started out nella bottegaas a woodworker, or, instead of being an apprentice, he may have been employed by Amati to decorate his instruments.  In any case, it is interesting that Stradavari’s early instruments bear less resemblance to those of Amati than his later instruments.

But the most enduring mystery of all is how Stradavari created stringed instruments of such extraordinary sound.  Despite archiviotechnological advances, his violins remain the gold standard.  For hundreds of years, scientists have been trying to discover the secrets behind the Cremonese’s craftsmanship.  One of the most recent research studies by a multidisciplinary team based in Milan attempted to explore the role of decorations on the sound production.  The study showed that the white lozenges on the soundboard’s edges are ivory and that the black threading on the sides of the instruments are painted with black ink and not the customary crushed ebony used at the time.  But the study did not prove anything about the incredible sound.

After 33 years of investigation, in 2009 a professor at the University of Texas concluded that it was a combination of chemicals that Spagnolo IIStradivari used to treat his instruments against woodworm which caused the unique sound.  And in 2012 a Swiss professor concluded that the secret was all in the wood:  the cold winters in Europe at the end of the 17th century made the wood compact, yet elastic.  These theories are interesting but inconclusive.  Stradavari used spruce for the top of the instruments, willow for the internal blocks and linings, and maple for the back, ribs, and neck.

Of the approximately 1,000 instruments that Stradavari and his atelier made between the end of the 17th and beginning of the 18th il monumentocentury, about 650 exist today.  They are either displayed in museums or owned privately.  Because a Stradavarius can cost about $5 million today, they are usually bought by wealthy benefactors, who in turn loan them to musicians at no charge or in exchange for private concerts, publicity, or other terms.

 

 

Posted in Arte, Foto, Italia, Italiano, Musica, Storia | 1 Comment

Salvatore Ferragamo: “Calzolaio delle stelle”

Quando Salvatore Ferragamo morì nel 1960, molte persone temevano che il suo immensoil museo impero artistico sarebbe caduta a pezzi tra le dispute familiari e la mancanza di imprenditorialità continua.  Invece, il nome e il patrimonio sono sopravvissuti.  Ma fu Salvatore che fondò l’impero scarpa e servì il mondo dell’élite della moda.

Salvatore nacque nel 1898 a Bonito, un paese piccolo nella provincia di Avellino nella regione italiana della Campania.  Fu l’undicesimo di 14 figli.  La sua passione cominciò quando fece il suo primo paio di scarpe, all’età di 9 anni per le sue sorelle da indossare durante la loro cresima.  La sua famiglia si oppose alla sua professione, che era considerata una delle più umili nel sud Italia al momento.  Ma Salvatore, che abbandonò la scuola in terza elementare, fu preso come apprendista da un famoso calzolaio di Napoli.  Un anno dopo tornò a Bonito per aprire un piccolo negozio.

All’età di 16 anni, Salvatore emigrò a Boston per unirsi a un fratello che lavorava in una fabbrica di stivale da cowboy.  Poco dopo, si trasferì di nuovo per unirsi ad altri fratelli a Santa Barbara in California.  I fratelli aprirono un negozio di riparazione di scarpe, che ebbe molto successo in una città con uno dei primi studi cinematografici.  Salvatore lasciò il negozio per trasferirsi a Hollywood per sequire la sua nuova vocazione—la progettazione di calzature per i film.

Salvatore progettò stivali da cowboy e sandali romani e egiziani, che affascinarono gli Salvatore e Sofiaattori tanto che cominciarono ordinarli per l’uso quotidiano.  I fit toosuoi clienti in quel momento inclusero Rudolph Valentino, Gloria Swanson, e Joan Crawford,  Ferragamo si concentrò non solo sullo stile ma anche sulla forma e sul taglio; fece corsi di anatomia presso l’Università della California del Sud.

bizarroAbbastanza presto non era in grado di tenere il passo con gli shoe formsordini per scarpe fatte a mano, soprattutto nel mondo cinematografico.  Iniziò a cercare calzolai competenti in tutta l’America, ma non trovò nessun artigiano che era in grado di vivere all’altezza delle sue aspettative.  Rifiutò di subire l’industrializzazione (una catena di montaggio della calzatura) e tornò in Italia.  Trovò artigiani adatti a Firenze e fondò una ditta con 60 lavoratori.

Sia la depressione sia la seconda guerra mondiale danneggiarono gli affari di Ferragamo, ma rimbalzò di nuovo entrambe le volte.  Quando il metallo era scarso, progettò la zeppa, il tacco a gabbia, e la scarpa piattaforma utilizzando lastre di sughero.  I suoi clienti crebbero per includere Eva Peron, Marilyn Monroe, Judy Garland, Greta Garbo, Anna Magnani, e Audrey Hepburn.  Ebbe una varietà infinita di stili eleganti, frivoli, bizzari, ed esclusivi.   Vinse un Oscar per la moda nel 1947 – il primo assegnato ad un calzolaio.

Dopo la morte di Ferragamo, all’età di 62 anni, la moglie e i figli presero il suo posto di attività di Palazzo Spini Feroni di Via Mannelli a Firenze. L’impero si espanse per includere altri prodotti come borse, profumi, e accessori in seta.  Il Palazzo non è solo la sede mondiale della società, ma anche il sito di un museo dedicato alla vita e alle opere di Salvatore Ferragamo, che fu aperto nel 1995.un'altra

wedge

sandal

kinda cute

 

Posted in Arte, California, Campania, Firenze, Foto, Italia, Italiano, Santa Barbara, Storia | 1 Comment

Salvatore Ferragamo: Shoemaker to the Stars

When Salvatore Ferragamo died in 1960, many people feared that his immense artistic il museoempire would fall apart between family disputes and lack of continued entrepreneurship.  Instead, the name and the patrimony lived on.  But it was Salvatore who founded the shoe empire and served the elite world of fashion.

Salvatore was born in 1898 in Bonito, a small town in the province of Avellino in the Campania region of Italy.  He was the 11th of 14 children.  His passion began when he made his first pair of shoes at the age of 9 for his sisters to wear at their confirmation.   His family opposed his chosen profession, which was considered to be one of the most humble in southern Italy at the time.  But Salvatore, who dropped out of school in the third grade, was taken on as an apprentice to a renowned Naples shoemaker.  A year later he returned to Bonito to open a small shop.

At 16 Salvatore emigrated to Boston to join his brother who worked in a cowboy boot factory.  Shortly thereafter he moved to join other brothers in Santa Barbara, California.  The brothers opened a shoe repair shop, which was very successful in the city with one of the first film studios.  Salvatore left the shop to go to Hollywood and pursue his new calling—designing footwear for movies.

Salvatore designed cowboy boots and Roman and Egyptian sandals, which captivated the Salvatore e Sofiaactors so much that they began ordering them for everyday use.  fit tooHis clients at that time included Rudolph Valentino, Gloria Swanson, and Joan Crawford among others.  Ferragamo focused not only on style but also on fit, and took anatomy courses at the University of Southern California.

Soon he was not able to keep up with the orders for handmade shoes, especially in the cinematic world.  He began to look for competent shoemakers throughout America but did not find any artisans who were able to live up to his expectations.  He refused to give in to industrialization (an assembly line of shoemaking) and returned to Italy.  He found suitable artisans in Florence and set up his workshop with 60 workers.

Both the Depression and the second world war took its toll on Ferragamo’s business but he bizarrobounced back both times.  When metal was scarce, he designed shoe formsthe wedge heel, the cage heel, and the platform shoe using slabs of cork.  His clientele grew to include Eva Peron, Marilyn Monroe, Judy Garland, Greta Garbo, Anna Magnani, and Audrey Hepburn.  He had an endless variety of elegant, frivolous, bizarre, and exclusive styles.  He earned an Oscar for fashion, the “Nieman Marcus Award,” in 1947—the first awarded to a shoemaker.

After Ferragamo’s death at the age of 62, his wife and children took over the business in Palazzo Spini Feroni in Via Mannelli.  The empire expanded to include other products like handbags, perfumes, and silk accessories.  The Palazzo is not only the world headquarters of the company, but also the site of a museum dedicated to Salvatore Ferragamo’s life and work, which was opened in 1995.kinda cutewedge un'altra sandal

Posted in Arte, California, Campania, English, Firenze, Foto, Italia, Santa Barbara | 1 Comment