Land of Poisons and Plots

Goat heads skewered on fence posts, armed men with face masks who knock on the door with the butt of machine guns (at dinner time, the family at table).  Fires, channels built to cause floods.  Death threats:  letters, cell phone messages, Facebook posts.  Children followed to soccer games.  Gas cylinders left at night on door mats.

For six years, from 2011 to last January, the ‘ndrangheta meddled in the affairs of a small house that is part residence and part music school for children.  And the two who lived there turned the criminal organization away.  With courage.  A rare courage.  And with official charges, in a city that reports nothing.  Martino and Serenella Parisi, 55 and 50 years young, fought back and won. And now the city can attach a name and a face to this.  Without fear.  With pride.

The Carabinieri of the provincial command of Reggio Calabria have arrested the first of thereggio-di-calabria-map criminals that tried to hold prisoner the couple and their 5 children, all boys.  Other arrests will probably follow.  The investigators are not stopping.

The neighborhood, the domain of the ‘ndrangheta, did not want that music school.  These initiatives draw the spotlight, inspire energy, give answers, offer alternatives.  Therefore, to the criminals, they are dangerous.  The ‘ndrangheta wants nothing in Reggio Calabria:  no tourists, no competition to their commercial enterprises, no free speech.  “But something is changing.  The people are beginning to rebel.  “We are only at the beginning, it’s true.  But, believe us, it is already a lot.”

Money and Retaliation

Gallina is a suburban area of Reggio Calabria.  Here Martino and Serenella—he a music Martino e Serenellateacher and formerly president of the Academy of Fine Arts, she a head teacher—had found a piece of land on which to build the music school.  The work was begun and almost finished when a demand arrived:  to complete the construction site they must pay an additional 230,000 euro.  A bribe.  They had already poured 443,000 euro into the construction company, and that was enough, as it was the sum agreed to under the estimate.  There were no unforeseen structural problems that would warrant additional repairs or modifications.

And yet the couple said no.  One time, a second time, a third time.  Then the warnings started.  Initially veiled.  Then brazen.  Still a refusal, clear cut:  We will not bow down, go away.  And the reprisals began, while around the neighborhood, people saw but kept quiet, perhaps unhappy but not intervening.  Land of hostages, Reggio Calabria.  Land of poisons and plots, of smear campaigns, mud-slinging, persecutions, and bloody power games, the work of the ‘ndrangheta.  But also the land of revolt.

The Rebels

Martino and Serenella found extraordinary help—a friend, a supporter, a refuge—in Claudio La Camera.  A man that is so many things wrapped up in one.  Founder of the Museum of the ‘ndrangheta in Reggio Calabria.  Inventor of anti-mafia initiatives.  Creator of free radio, where the young start off in journalism and become tenacious citizen reporters.  A landmark for those who, in the city and the region, do not want to listen to the orders of criminal organizations and the weavers of dark plots.  La Camera gave strength to the couple and convinced them not to surrender.  There were dramatic, distressing, and terrifying moments.  The children were followed to their workouts and to their soccer games.  When there were birthdays, the parents received anonymous telephone calls “of good wishes.”  If the children rode around on a scooter, other telephone calls advised the parents to tell the boys to be careful when turning a corner, because with a scooter, “one can fall.”

“We are not heroes”

Local newspapers, spoon fed by the criminals, wrote atrocities against the Parisis, revealing non-existent secrets in their private life and ghostly mafia-like stories in their professional lives.  It was a campaign of hate and destruction.  The first person arrested is Emanuele Quattrone, who is 47 years and has a criminal record.  He is known in the area, as he always wanted to lay down the law.

If one has not lived in Reggio Calabria, it takes time and effort to understand daily life there.  There are neighborhoods where dirty water flows, where to wash yourself is impossible, to drink the water is very dangerous.  There are supermarkets that clients won’t go into because the ‘ndrangheta has its own supermarkets that must be frequented.

But the Parisis stand up for the city: “Many people go away to live elsewhere because they are sick of the idea of raising their children in a place so tormented.  Everyone has his or her reasons.  But we wonder—why give into violence?  Reggio Calabria is ours.  It is the la scuola di musicabrutes, if anything, who must change.  How did we do this?  We watched our children.  And we watch the babies, often of poor families, who come to the music school.  There are only 25 students at this time and we keep them close.  In the beginning, some courses saw the number of those attending decrease day by day.  But that has stopped.  We have the potential for a thousand students.  If it wasn’t our initiative, there would be another.  We are not heroes.  We are parents.”

 

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Il Culto del Caffé

il culto del caffeIl caffé è così integrato nella cultura italiana e i suoi riti così precisi che a volte gli stranieri hanno difficoltà a capire come ordinare la bevanda nazionale.  Ecco un breve resoconto.

 Latte la mattina

Si dovrebbe davvero solo bere il cappuccino, caffé latte, o qualunque altra forma di caffé con latte al mattino, di solito entro l’11 e mai dopo il cappuccinoil pranzo o la cena.  Gli italiani rabbrividiscono al solo pensiero del latte caldo che si addentra nello stomaco pieno.  Se è necessario rompere questa regola, almeno cercare di scusarsi con il barista.

La semplicità è tutto

alla nocciolaNon si scherza con il caffé.  Ordinare un Frappuccino alla menta in Italia è come chiedere un singolo whiskey di malto e limonata con un swizzle stick in un pub di Glasgow.  Ma ci sono una o due eccezioni regionali a questa regola.  A Napoli, è possibile ordinare un caffé allaun marocchino nocciola, che è un espresso schiumoso con crema di nocciole.  A Milano si può impressionare la gente del posto chiedendo un Marocchino, una sorta di cappuccino a testa in giù, che è servito in un bicchiere piccolo che viene prima cosparso di polvere di cacao, poi riempito con latte schiumoso  ed infine viene aggiunto il caffé.

Mai dire ‘espresso’

Se non si desidera essere immediatamente visto come un turista, non usare la parola ‘espresso.’  Espresso è l’impostazione predefinita.  Perciò, un singolo espresso è semplicamente conosciuto come un caffè.

Doppio guaio

double troublePotete ordinare un caffé doppio se vi piace, ma dovete capire che questa non é una comune abitudine italiana.  Gli italiani bevono un sacco di caffé, ma lo fanno in piccole dosi costanti.

Il bar nel quartiere o alla stazione o all’aeroporto

Se andate al bar locale, chiamate il vostro ordine con una voce forte eat a bar fiduciosa, anche se il barista é di spalle, e poi pagate in seguito alla cassa.  Se siete in un bar in una stazione ferroviaria, per esempio, e il barista urla “biglietto,” pagate prima di bere.

In piedi

Non sedetevi a meno che non abbiate una buona ragione.  Altrimenti, dovrete pagare il costo del servizio.  Il caffè è una ‘droga’ piacevole, ma tuttavia è sempre una droga, e dovrebbe essere consumato in un solo sorso mentre siete in piedi.

La temperatura giusta

Dovete aspettare che il caffè raggiunga una temperatura che vi permetta di berlo immediatamente.  Se preferite bruciarvi le labbra o la lingua, o vi piace soffiare la schiuma del vostro cappuccino nel tentativo di raffreddarlo, chiedete un caffè bollente.

Le bevande consentite

caffe correttoCaffè, cappuccino, e caffè latte rappresentano la Santa Trinitá. Ma ci sono alcune variazioni accettabili.  Caffè macchiato o latte macchiato è un espresso con una goccia di latte o un latte caldo con una goccia di caffè (solo la mattina).  Caffè corretto, originariamente per i costruttori italiani, contiene brandy o grappa.  Caffè freddo o cappuccino freddo, attenzione, questo di solito viene pre-zuccherato.  Si può anche chiedere un caffè lungo o ristretto (o corto) se si vuole più o meno acqua nel caffè.

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The Coffee Cult

il culto del caffeCoffee is so integrated into Italian culture and its rites are so precise that foreigners often have difficulty understanding how to order the national drink.  Here is a brief guideline.

Milk in the Morning

One should really only drink cappuccino, caffé latte, or any other form il cappuccinoof coffee with milk in the morning, usually before 11 a.m. and never after lunch or dinner.  Italians cringe at the thought of hot milk hitting a full stomach.  If you must break this rule, at least try to apologize to the barista.

Keep it Simple

alla nocciolaDon’t mess around with coffee.  Ordering a mint Frappuccino in Italy is like ordering a single malt whiskey with lemonade and a swizel stick in a Glasgow pub.  There are one or two exceptions to this rule.  In Naples, you can order a caffé alla nocciola, which is a frothy espresso with hazelnut cream.  In Milan, you can impress the locals by asking for aun marocchino Marocchino, a sort of upside-down cappuccino, served in a small glass sprinkled first with cocoa powder, then hit with a blob of frothed milk, then spiked with a shot of espresso.

But never say ‘espresso’

If you don’t want to immediately be spotted as a tourist, don’t use the word ‘espresso.’  Espresso is the default setting.  Therefore a single espresso is simply known as a coffee.

Double Trouble

double troubleYou can order a double if you wish, but know that this is not a common Italian practice.  Italians drink a lot of coffee, but they do so in small, constant doses.

The Neighborhood Bar versus those at the airport or train station

If you go to the local bar, call out your order in a strong, confident voice, even if the barista has his back to you.  After you drink the coffee, pay at the register.  But if you are in a train station, for example, and the barista yells “ticket,” you have to pay before you drink.

While Standing

Don’t sit at a table unless you have a good reason.  Otherwise, you willat a bar pay a service charge.  Coffee is a pleasurable drug, but nonetheless a drug and should be consumed in one hit, while standing.

The Right Temperature

You should expect the coffee to arrive at a temperature at which it can be downed immediately.  If you prefer to burn your lips or your tongue, or you like to blow the foam from your cappuccino in an attempt to cool it down, ask for a caffé bollente (boiling).

Permitted Drinks

Caffé, cappuccino, and caffé latte are the Holy Trinity in this world.  But there are a few acceptable variations.  Caffé macchiato or latte caffe correttomacchiato is an espresso with a dash of milk or a hot milk with a dash of coffee (morning only); caffé corretto (corrected), originally the Italian builder’s early morning pick-me-up, is an espresso with a slug of brandy or grappa; and caffé freddo or cappuccino (iced) – but, beware, it usually comes pre-sugared.  You can also ask for a caffé lungo (long) or ristretto / corto (short) if you want more or less water in your coffee.

 

 

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