Salvatore Ferragamo: Shoemaker to the Stars

When Salvatore Ferragamo died in 1960, many people feared that his immense artistic il museoempire would fall apart between family disputes and lack of continued entrepreneurship.  Instead, the name and the patrimony lived on.  But it was Salvatore who founded the shoe empire and served the elite world of fashion.

Salvatore was born in 1898 in Bonito, a small town in the province of Avellino in the Campania region of Italy.  He was the 11th of 14 children.  His passion began when he made his first pair of shoes at the age of 9 for his sisters to wear at their confirmation.   His family opposed his chosen profession, which was considered to be one of the most humble in southern Italy at the time.  But Salvatore, who dropped out of school in the third grade, was taken on as an apprentice to a renowned Naples shoemaker.  A year later he returned to Bonito to open a small shop.

At 16 Salvatore emigrated to Boston to join his brother who worked in a cowboy boot factory.  Shortly thereafter he moved to join other brothers in Santa Barbara, California.  The brothers opened a shoe repair shop, which was very successful in the city with one of the first film studios.  Salvatore left the shop to go to Hollywood and pursue his new calling—designing footwear for movies.

Salvatore designed cowboy boots and Roman and Egyptian sandals, which captivated the Salvatore e Sofiaactors so much that they began ordering them for everyday use.  fit tooHis clients at that time included Rudolph Valentino, Gloria Swanson, and Joan Crawford among others.  Ferragamo focused not only on style but also on fit, and took anatomy courses at the University of Southern California.

Soon he was not able to keep up with the orders for handmade shoes, especially in the cinematic world.  He began to look for competent shoemakers throughout America but did not find any artisans who were able to live up to his expectations.  He refused to give in to industrialization (an assembly line of shoemaking) and returned to Italy.  He found suitable artisans in Florence and set up his workshop with 60 workers.

Both the Depression and the second world war took its toll on Ferragamo’s business but he bizarrobounced back both times.  When metal was scarce, he designed shoe formsthe wedge heel, the cage heel, and the platform shoe using slabs of cork.  His clientele grew to include Eva Peron, Marilyn Monroe, Judy Garland, Greta Garbo, Anna Magnani, and Audrey Hepburn.  He had an endless variety of elegant, frivolous, bizarre, and exclusive styles.  He earned an Oscar for fashion, the “Nieman Marcus Award,” in 1947—the first awarded to a shoemaker.

After Ferragamo’s death at the age of 62, his wife and children took over the business in Palazzo Spini Feroni in Via Mannelli.  The empire expanded to include other products like handbags, perfumes, and silk accessories.  The Palazzo is not only the world headquarters of the company, but also the site of a museum dedicated to Salvatore Ferragamo’s life and work, which was opened in 1995.kinda cutewedge un'altra sandal

Posted in Arte, California, Campania, English, Firenze, Foto, Italia, Santa Barbara | 1 Comment

L’effetto della Brexit sull’Italia

Se fosse stata un’elezione italiana, ci sarebbero stati giornalisti inglesi a frotte pronti a ridere del politica ingenua e infantile del Bel Paese.  Che toglie il fiato nel referendum Brexit sono le bugie e le esagerazioni di entrambi i campi nella stampa britannica e nei discorsi dei leader.  Qualque esempio:  l’esistenza di un milione e mezzo di immigrati clandestini causerà il collasso nei conti del servizio sanitario nazionale in due o tre anni; una promessa di 350 milioni di sterline settimanali a questo servizio perchè non ci sarà un contributo dell’Unione; il ripristino nei controlli nazionali aumenterebbe di dieci volte l’abilità di fermare sospetti terroristi; lo spettro di 700 reati settimanali commessi da immigrati comunitari…e la migliore:  ci sarà un’invasione di migranti turchi se il Regno Unito non lasciasse l’Unione Europea.

Chiaramente, i timori per l’immigrazioni erano un gran problema tra i votanti.  Ciò che l’elezione ha rivelato erano profonde divisioni all’interno della Gran Bretagna—tra le generazioni, tra i livelli di istruzione e quelli socio-economici, e tra le regioni geografiche.

Ma che cosa sarà probabilmente l’impatto della Brexit sull’Italia?  Non lo sappiamo, particolarmente  a medio o a lunga termine.  Il crollo immediato dei mercato era previsto e prevedibile.  L’economia europea probabilmente sarà più debole almeno per un certo tempo.  Per l’Italia, uno dei paesi con la crescita più bassa in Europa e il debito più alto, la Brexit non è buona notizia.  Nell’immediato futuro, l’Italia rischia di pagare un prezzo più alto per la Brexit.

Sul fronte delle esportazioni,  il Regno Unito è un mercato rilevante per l’Italia.  Nel 2015 l’interscambio commerciale è stato del 5,9% più alto rispetto al 2014.  Se il Regno Unito fosse rimasto nell’Ue, le esportazioni italiani per la Gran Bretagna sarebbero aumentate del 5,5% all’anno nel periodo 2017-2019.  Con la Brexit, invece, questo flusso probabilmente rallenterà.

Certamente ci saranno molti cambiamenti nel mondo degli affari e altri aspetti della vita, ma non tutti saranno terribili.  Ciò che rende le persone a disagio è l’incertezza.  Potrebbero le banche lasciare la piazza finanziaria di Londra?  Potrebbero le fabbriche di automobili nella Gran Bretagna (con impianti Nissan, Honda, Toyota, BMW, e General Motors) chiudere e riapire in un paese membro dell’Ue dell’Est?  Che accadrà ai 300,000 italiani residenti nel Regno Unito?  Che cosa sarà il futuro della ricerca alle università britanniche, che sono finanziate al 20% dal Consiglio europeo? Potrebbe innalzare la Gran Bretagna barriere doganali, una ricaduta sulle vendite dei prodotti “made in Italy”?

Che cosa sarà l’effetto domino, in termini politici, su altri Paesi dell’Unione Europea?  Bruxelles sarà dura nei negoziati con l’Inghliterra, si dice, per scoraggiare altri paesi di lasciare l’Unione.  Avrà lo scenario finanziario dell’Unione un impatto alle urne in Italia a ottobre, quando in gioco ci saranno la riforma costituzionale, la stabilità del governo, il futuro del primo ministro, e la tenuta della legislatura?

È importante di sottolineare di evitare falsi allarmismi e sfacciate menzogne nella stampa e nei discorsi dei leader dell’Europa in questo momento di incertezza.

Posted in Abitudini, Italia, Italiano, Politica | Leave a comment

The Brexit Effect on Italy

If it had been an Italian election, there would have been British journalists in droves ready to laugh at the naïve and childish politics in Italy.  What takes your breath away in the Brexit referendum are the lies and exaggerations from both camps…in the British press and in the speeches of its leaders.  Some examples:  the existence of a million and a half illegal immigrants will cause the collapse the National Health Service in two or three years; a promise of 350 million pounds weekly to this service because there will be no contribution to the EU; the restoration of national control will increase 10-fold the ability to stop suspected terrorists; the spectre of 700 crimes committed weekly by EU immigrants … and the best:  there will be an invasion of Turkish immigrants if the United Kingdom does not leave the European Union.

Clearly, fears about immigration were one of the top issues among the voters.  What the election also revealed were the deep divisions within Great Britain—between the generations, among different educational and socio-economic levels, and between geographic regions.

But what is likely to be the impact of Brexit on Italy?  We don’t yet know, of course, particularly for the medium and long term.  The immediate fall of the markets was expected and predictable.  The European economy will probably be weaker for a time.  For Italy, one of the countries with the lowest growth in Europe and one of the highest debts, Brexit is not good news.  In the immediate future, Italy risks paying a higher price for Brexit.

On the export side, the United Kingdom is a major market for Italy.  In 2015, the trade exchange was 5.9% higher than in 2014.  If Great Britain had remained in the EU, Italian exports to that region were expected to grow at 5.5% in the 2017-2019 period.  With Brexit, the flow will probably slow.

Certainly there will be many changes in the world of business and other aspects of life, but perhaps not all will be terrible.  What makes people so uncomfortable is the uncertainty.  Could some banks leave the central financial district of London?  Could some automobile factories in Great Britain (Nissan, Honda, Toyota, BMW, General Motors plants) close and reopen in another EU member nation, perhaps to the East?  What happens to the 300,000 Italian residents in the UK?  What will be the future of research at British universities that are financed in part by the EU?  Will the English raise customs barriers, a repercussion for products “made in Italy”?

What will be the domino effect, politically speaking, on other European Union countries?  It is said that Brussels will be hard in the negotiations with the UK, in order to discourage other countries from leaving the EU.  Could the financial scenario of the EU have an impact at the ballot box in Italy in October when at play will be constitutional reforms, the stability of the government, the future of the prime minister, and the sway of the legislature?

It’s important to avoid scaremongering and bold-faced lies in the press and in the speeches of European leaders at such a time of uncertainty.

Posted in Abitudini, English, Italia, Politica | Leave a comment