Language and Dialect

Italy is known as one of the richest countries in the world in terms of its many dialects.  Unified for only 150 years, Italy has been a crossroads of different peoples and cultures throughout its history.  Every region has its own unique dialect that differs from standard (Florentine) Italian in sounds and spelling, grammar, syntax, and vocabulary.

What is the difference between a language and a dialect?  There is not one universally accepted definition.  Popular usage suggests that languages are written, standardized, and have a literature, while dialects are oral, do not have codified rules, and do not have a literature.  There are several objections to this distinction.  First, there is oral literature; the Iliad and the Odyssey probably originated as memorized poems.  Second, the term “dialect” in this context suggests that it is less sophisticated.  Yet there are dialects that are more grammatically complicated than languages.

There is a famous aphorism by Max Weinrich, a Yiddish linguist, who said, “language is a dialect with an army and a navy.”  This suggests social and political distinctions.  Hong Kong claims that Chinese (Mandarin) and English are its official languages.  Cantonese, which is widely spoken there, is considered a dialect.  Linguists use the distinction of “mutual intelligibility.”  If you can understand speech without training, it’s a dialect of your own language.  If you can’t, it’s a distinct language.  In other words, if two kinds of speech are close enough so that speakers of each can have a conversation and understand each other, they are dialects of a single language.  By this criterion, Cantonese is a language as Mandarin speakers cannot understand it.  Yet speakers of Swedish, Danish, and Norwegian can converse, each in their native tongues, without taking lessons.  Hence, these “languages” look more like dialects of one “language.”  But because they are spoken in distinct nations, they are called languages.

Let’s return to Italy where dialects are mostly spoken in villages and rural areas today.  They are more vibrant in certain regions, like the Veneto and Southern Italy.  Some regions, such as Sardinia and Friuli, have established their local dialects as an official language.  The farther you travel from Florence, the home of standard Italian, the more the dialect varies.  In the Roman dialect, for example, the definite article “il” becomes “er” and the articulated pronoun “in + il = nel” becomes “ner.”  While in standard Italian, most words end in a vowel, in Molise, these vowels are dropped.  In the Calabrese dialect, “o” becomes “u.”  In both many words are unrecognizable to the uninitiated.

Dialects have important uses in these regions.  They are used to express feelings.  And they are used in certain contexts.  For example, a person who orders coffee at a local bar or greets a friend on the street would appear cold if he used standard Italian.  If someone receives a telephone call in the presence of others, he might avoid dialect to convey that he cannot speak openly.

For the most part, the Italian language derives from Latin but is also influenced by northern and southern European countries.  Sicily, on the other hand, was more influenced by Greek and Arabic; hence “boys” became not “ragazzi” (standard Italian) but “carusi” from the Greek “kouri.”

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La Controversia sul Tiramisù

download (1)Il Tiramisù è un popolare dolce italiano, che è fatto di savoiardi immersi nel caffè e con strati di un misto montato di uova, zucchero, mascarpone, e aromatizzato con cacao.  A differenza di altri piatti italiani tradizionali (le cui ricette devono essere rigorosamente seguite), ci sono molte varianti accettabili di questo dolce…cioè, a meno che non si viva a Treviso o Udine.

La lotta di cibo questa volta è alle origini del tiramisù.  Sembra che ogni regione voglia aver  inventato questa prelibatezza.  La maggior parte dei dibattiti sono tra la Toscana, il Piemonte, il Veneto, e il Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, soprattutto gli ultimi due.

imagesLa più antica leggenda della nascita del tiramisù risale alla Siena del diciassettesimo secolo, dove pasticceri, in previsione di una visita del Granduca di Toscana, Cosimo de Medici, decisero di preparare un dolce per celebrarlo.  A quel tempo, fu chiamato “zuppa del duca”; presumibilmente Cosimo de Medici portò la ricetta a Firenze e download (4)divenne nota in tutta Italia.

Un’altra versione narra che un pasticcere torinese inventò il tiramisù in onore di Camillo Benso, conte di Cavour, per sostenerlo nella sua difficile impresa di unificare l’Italia.

La maggior parte dei conti di origine data la sua invenzione al 1960 download (7)nella regione del Veneto presso il ristorante Le download (8)Beccherie a Treviso.  Secondo questa teoria, il piatto è stato creato da Roberto Linguanotto, chef e proprietario del ristorante, insieme alla sua apprendista il cui nome da nubile era Tiramisù.  Tuttavia, download (2)Carminantonio Iannaccone sostiene che il tiramisù del ristorante Le Beccherie era download (3)stato fatto da lui nel suo forno.  In ogni caso, ricette chiamate “tiramisù” sono sconosciute nei libri di cucina prima del 1960.

Il governatore della regione, che include la città di Treviso, è così ossessionato da “possedere” il tiramisù che ha deciso da tempo di download (6)chiedere il riconoscimento di Specialità territoriale garantia (Stg), un marchio dell’Unione europea che finora è stato assegnato a soli due alimenti in Italia—la pizza napoletana e la mozzarella.  E ora un nuovo libro è stato pubblicato che mette l’origine in discussione.  Gli autori di “Tiramisù: Storia, curiosità, download (5)interpretazioni del dolce più amato” presentano prove che Norma Pielli Del Fabbro, ex titolare dell’albergo Roma Di Tolmezzo a Udine l’avrebbe inventato.  Norma ha affermato, “L’abbiamo creato noi negli anni 50”.  Norma è morta nel 2015, ma  suo figlio ha mostrato agli autori un ricevuta di messa in vendita del 1959 con “2 tiramisù e 1 strudel” e anche 2 menù stampati dal 1963 e 1965 relativi a cene dell’Accademia della Cucina Italiana.

Il governatore di Treviso non sembra essere scoraggiato.  La sua risposta:  “C’è un atto notarile che lo certifica che il dolce è nostro”.  Gli autori del libro rispondono, accontentandoli tutti,  che “le ricette originali del tiramisù sono quattro, due venete e due friulane”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The Controversy over Tiramisù

download (1)Tiramisù, which means “lift me up,” is a popular Italian dessert made of lady fingers dipped in coffee and layered with a whipped mixture of eggs, sugar, mascarpone cheese, and flavored with cocoa.  Unlike other traditional Italian dishes (whose recipes must be strictly followed), there seem to be many acceptable variations of this dessert…that is, unless you live in Treviso or Udine.

The food fight this time is about the origins of tiramisù.  It seems that every region in Italy would  like to have invented this delicacy.  Most of the debates are among the regions of Tuscany, Piedmont, the Veneto, and Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, particularly the last two.

The oldest legend of the birth of tiramisù dates back to the 17th imagescentury in Siena where pastry makers, in anticipation of a visit from the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo de Medici, decided to make a dessert to celebrate him.  At the time, it was called “zuppa del duca” (literally, soup of the duke); supposedly he brought the recipe to Florence and it became known throughout Italy.download (4)

Another version maintains that a Turin pastry chef invented tiramisù in honor of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, to support him in the difficult task of unifying Italy.

Most accounts of the origin date its invention to the 1960s in the download (7)download (8)region of Veneto at the restaurant Le Beccherie in Treviso.  Supposedly, the dish was created by Roberto Linguanotto, chef and restaurant owner, along with his apprentice whose maiden download (2)name was Tiramisù.  However, Carminantonio Iannaccone claims that the download (3)tiramisù at Le Beccherie was made by him in his bakery.  Regardless, recipes called “tiramisù” are unknown in cookbooks before the 1960s.

The governor of Treviso is so obsessed with “owning” tiramisù that he decided long ago to seek the recognition of Specialità territoriale download (6)garantita (territorial specialty guaranteed), a European Union mark that so far has been awarded to only two foods in Italy—Neapolitan pizza and mozzarella.  And now a new book has been published that calls into question the origin.  The authors of “Tiramisù:  History, download (5)Curiosity, Interpretations of the beloved dessert” present evidence that Norma Pielli Del Fabbro, former owner of the hotel, Roma in Tomezzo, in Udine invented it.  Norma claimed “We created it in the ‘50s.”  Norma died in 2015 but her son showed the authors a 1959 receipt listing “2 tiramisù and 1 strudel” and also 2 printed menus from 1963 and 1965 related to dinners of the Academy of Italian Cuisine.

The Treviso governor is not to be deterred.  His reply: “There is a deed that certifies that the dessert is ours.”  The diplomatic authors of the book reply, satisfying everyone, “There are four original recipes for tiramisù—2 from the Veneto and 2 from Friuli.”

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