The Controversy over Tiramisù

download (1)Tiramisù, which means “lift me up,” is a popular Italian dessert made of lady fingers dipped in coffee and layered with a whipped mixture of eggs, sugar, mascarpone cheese, and flavored with cocoa.  Unlike other traditional Italian dishes (whose recipes must be strictly followed), there seem to be many acceptable variations of this dessert…that is, unless you live in Treviso or Udine.

The food fight this time is about the origins of tiramisù.  It seems that every region in Italy would  like to have invented this delicacy.  Most of the debates are among the regions of Tuscany, Piedmont, the Veneto, and Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, particularly the last two.

The oldest legend of the birth of tiramisù dates back to the 17th imagescentury in Siena where pastry makers, in anticipation of a visit from the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo de Medici, decided to make a dessert to celebrate him.  At the time, it was called “zuppa del duca” (literally, soup of the duke); supposedly he brought the recipe to Florence and it became known throughout Italy.download (4)

Another version maintains that a Turin pastry chef invented tiramisù in honor of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, to support him in the difficult task of unifying Italy.

Most accounts of the origin date its invention to the 1960s in the download (7)download (8)region of Veneto at the restaurant Le Beccherie in Treviso.  Supposedly, the dish was created by Roberto Linguanotto, chef and restaurant owner, along with his apprentice whose maiden download (2)name was Tiramisù.  However, Carminantonio Iannaccone claims that the download (3)tiramisù at Le Beccherie was made by him in his bakery.  Regardless, recipes called “tiramisù” are unknown in cookbooks before the 1960s.

The governor of Treviso is so obsessed with “owning” tiramisù that he decided long ago to seek the recognition of Specialità territoriale download (6)garantita (territorial specialty guaranteed), a European Union mark that so far has been awarded to only two foods in Italy—Neapolitan pizza and mozzarella.  And now a new book has been published that calls into question the origin.  The authors of “Tiramisù:  History, download (5)Curiosity, Interpretations of the beloved dessert” present evidence that Norma Pielli Del Fabbro, former owner of the hotel, Roma in Tomezzo, in Udine invented it.  Norma claimed “We created it in the ‘50s.”  Norma died in 2015 but her son showed the authors a 1959 receipt listing “2 tiramisù and 1 strudel” and also 2 printed menus from 1963 and 1965 related to dinners of the Academy of Italian Cuisine.

The Treviso governor is not to be deterred.  His reply: “There is a deed that certifies that the dessert is ours.”  The diplomatic authors of the book reply, satisfying everyone, “There are four original recipes for tiramisù—2 from the Veneto and 2 from Friuli.”

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Il mistero di Stradivari (o Stradivarius)

StradAntonio Stradivari (in latino, Antonius Stradivarius) fu un liutaio italiano, un costruttore di strumenti a corde di straordinaria fattura come violini, viole, violoncelli, chitarre, e arpe.  Il nome “Stradivari” o “Stradivarius” connota l’eccellenza nella liuteria, anche se altri liutai della giornata, come Amati e Guarneri, anche produssero strumenti di suono eccellente.

La vita e l’opera di Stradivari sono circondate da un alone di mistero,download cominciando con la sua nascita.  I documenti sono incoerenti, ma si ritiene che sia nato intorno al 1644, presumibilmente a Cremona.  L’origine del nome potrebbe essere o il plurale di Stradivare, che significa “toll-man” in Lombardia, o “de Strataverta” from Strada averta, che significa strada aperta in dialetto cremonese.

Tra l’età di 12 e 14 anni, Stradivari probabilmente diventò un apprendista di Niccolò Amati.  Un’altra teoria dice che iniziò come nella bottegafalegname, oppure, invece di essere un apprendista, fu impiegato da Amati per decorare i suoi strumenti.  In ogni caso, è interessante che i primi strumenti di Stradivari avevano meno somiglianza con quelli di Amati che gli strumenti più tardi.

Ma il mistero più duraturo di tutti è come Stradivari creava strumenti a corde di tale suono straordinario.  Nonostante i progressi tecnologici, i suoi violini rimangono il gold standard.  Per centinaia di archivioanni, gli scienziati cercavano di scoprire i segreti che stanno dietro la maestria del Cremonese.  Uno dei più recenti studi di ricerca da parte di un gruppo multidisciplinare con sede a Milano che ha tentato di esplorare il ruolo della decorazione sulla produzione del suono.  Lo studio ha rivelato che le losanghe bianche sui bordi della tavola armonica sono di avorio e che la filettatura nera sui lati degli strumenti sono dipinte con inchiostro nero e non sono ebano schiacciato normalmente utilizzato al momento.  Ma lo studio non ha dimostrato nulla del suono incredibile.

Dopo 33 anni di indagini, nel 2009, un professore all’Università del Spagnolo IITexas ha concluso che fu una combinazione di sostanze chimiche che Stradivari usava per trattare i suoi strumenti contro tarli che hanno causato il suono unico.  E nel 2012 un professore svizzero ha concluso che il segreto era tutto nel legno:  gli inverni freddi in Europea alla fine del XVII secolo resero il legno compatto, ma elastico.  Queste teorie sono interessanti, ma inconcludenti.  Stradivari utilizzò abete rosso per la parte superiore degli strumenti, salice per i blocchi interni e rivestimenti, e acero per la schiena, costole, e il collo.

Dei circa 1.000 strumenti che Stradivari e il suo atelier effettuarono il monumentotra la fine del XVII e l’inizio del XVIII secolo, circa 650 esistono oggi.  O sono esposti in musei come il Smithsonian o di proprietà privata.  Perché un Stradivarius può costare circa $5 milioni di oggi, di solito sono acquistati da ricchi benefattori, che a loro volta li prestano a musicisti sensa alcun costo o in cambio di concerti privati, pubblicità, o altri termini.

 

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The Mystery of Stradivari (or Stradavarius)

StradAntonio Stradavari (in latin, Antonius Stradivarius) was an Italian luthier — a maker of extraordinary stringed instruments such as violins, violas, cellos, guitars, and harps.  Even if you’re not a musical expert, the name “Stradavarius” connotes excellence in instrument making even though other luthiers at the time, like Amati and Guarneri, also produced instruments of excellent sound.

Stradavari’s life and work are surrounded by an aura of mystery, downloadbeginning with his birth.  Records are inconsistent, but it is believed that he was born around 1644 presumably in Cremona.  The origin of the name could be either the plural of Stradivare meaning “toll-man” in Lombardy or “de Strataverta,” from Strada averta, which means “open road” in Cremonese dialect.

Between the ages of 12 and 14, Stradavari probably became an apprentice to Nicolò Amati.  Another theory holds that he started out nella bottegaas a woodworker, or, instead of being an apprentice, he may have been employed by Amati to decorate his instruments.  In any case, it is interesting that Stradavari’s early instruments bear less resemblance to those of Amati than his later instruments.

But the most enduring mystery of all is how Stradavari created stringed instruments of such extraordinary sound.  Despite archiviotechnological advances, his violins remain the gold standard.  For hundreds of years, scientists have been trying to discover the secrets behind the Cremonese’s craftsmanship.  One of the most recent research studies by a multidisciplinary team based in Milan attempted to explore the role of decorations on the sound production.  The study showed that the white lozenges on the soundboard’s edges are ivory and that the black threading on the sides of the instruments are painted with black ink and not the customary crushed ebony used at the time.  But the study did not prove anything about the incredible sound.

After 33 years of investigation, in 2009 a professor at the University of Texas concluded that it was a combination of chemicals that Spagnolo IIStradivari used to treat his instruments against woodworm which caused the unique sound.  And in 2012 a Swiss professor concluded that the secret was all in the wood:  the cold winters in Europe at the end of the 17th century made the wood compact, yet elastic.  These theories are interesting but inconclusive.  Stradavari used spruce for the top of the instruments, willow for the internal blocks and linings, and maple for the back, ribs, and neck.

Of the approximately 1,000 instruments that Stradavari and his atelier made between the end of the 17th and beginning of the 18th il monumentocentury, about 650 exist today.  They are either displayed in museums or owned privately.  Because a Stradavarius can cost about $5 million today, they are usually bought by wealthy benefactors, who in turn loan them to musicians at no charge or in exchange for private concerts, publicity, or other terms.

 

 

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